• We apologize for the somewhat convoluted sign-up process. Due to ever-more sophisticated attacks by chatbots, we had to increase our filtering in order to weed out AI while letting humans through. It's a nuisance, but a necessary one in order to keep the level of discourse on the forums authentic and useful. From the actual humans using WCP, thanks for your understanding!

Rear carrying handle- pygmy double?

Rick_M

Paddler
Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Messages
28
Has anyone put a rear carrying handle on the rear deck of a pygmy double?

I will be using a "smart track" rudder, which stores in a vertical position (not on the deck). My other boats have a rear carrying handle (which I like).

I am thinking of making a reinforced place (several layers of glass) that I can screw on the SS pad eye (through bolts). I will be putting in a rear hatch so I should be able to reach back into the hull compartment to attach it. Does anyone have suggestions on how many layers and the size of the reinforcement should be? Or should I do something different?

Thanks
Rick McK
Seattle
 
I would suggest lifting the double from the bottom of the hull and not worry about a rear toggle. When I had my Pygmy double I had no rear handle because of the rudder and never had an issue lifting it. If I were to build another double, I wouldn't put a rear toggle on it.

If you do decide to install a handle, it might be a good idea to reinforce the crap out of the underside of the deck (and maybe the deck/hull seam as well) where the toggle is installed.

But really, imho, you're probably better off just lifting by the bottom of the boat.
 
An alternative to consider is to carry a sling(s) that you loop under the end(s). Then minimal bending down and core strength on lifting is used.
If the end handle approach is chosen, I'd really 2nd what Dan mentions abt reinforcement.
 
Bottom lifting is probably the simplest option. But a wet boat can slip out of your grip. I always cringe when somebody offers to help carry my boat and doesn't use the toggle. Maybe a small patch of unfilled glass would add just enough extra friction. Fill with enough Epoxy as to seal the glass.
Custom wood stems with finger notches could be nice craftsmanship feature.

Roy
 
Curious side note:
When carrying a double on the roof of the car for the highway, how do attach stern lines with no toggle?
 
Thank you for the ideas and thoughts. I helps me better understand the options. Such as the need to reinforcement of the deck-hull seam.

I am doing the end pour for the rudder mount with (west systems # 410- micro balloons), and the seam is filled with # 405 (which seems a lot like wood flour). A new idea is to make a hole like the bow for the rear toggle. The rudder is vertical when out of the water, so I don't think it will interfere with the rudder (will have to check this).

Thanks
Rick
 
Reef said:
Curious side note:
When carrying a double on the roof of the car for the highway, how do attach stern lines with no toggle?
I had a half inch hole drilled through the bow -- ran a stern line through the deck lines.
 
Rick_M said:
I am doing the end pour for the rudder mount with (west systems # 410- micro balloons), and the seam is filled with # 405 (which seems a lot like wood flour). A new idea is to make a hole like the bow for the rear toggle. The rudder is vertical when out of the water, so I don't think it will interfere with the rudder (will have to check this).
It's not necessary to do a solid end pour of thickened epoxy. When I built my Coho I fashioned a wood wedge to fit the bow. It reduced the possibility of overheating epoxy when curing and added considerable less weight to the boat. You can see how I did the end "pours" here:

http://www.westcoastpaddler.com/buildin ... 12&pos=111
 
I did install a rear toggle handle on my Pygmy Double. I got the stainless u-bolt from West Marine. I installed an extra 1/4" plywood reinforcement plate under the deck and ran the u-bolts through the reinforcement plate. I have the standard rudder so I put the toggle just in front of the rudder when it is in the stored position. Check out the link below for a photo of the top of the deck and toggle. I've been using it for 6 years and have had no problems with it. It works great when carrying unloaded to and from the beach, but loading on the truck requires lifting from the toggle and from the bottom of the hull just to get exta leverage and stabilization while lifting.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=706
 
Just a follow up to the rear deck toggle handle. To give credit where I got the idea of using the u-bolt is from Batstar (Forum Member). I included a link below to a forum topic that has another link to his Artic Tern he installed the u-bolt to the rear deck. Also I attached a link to the u-bolt part I got at West Marine. it's fairly expensive but it has a nice clean look to it, I think.


viewtopic.php?f=7&t=187

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... JvefW8qY1I
 
Back
Top