Arctic Tern 17 build

Discussion in 'Boat and Accessory Building' started by DarrenM, Jan 14, 2006.

  1. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    Getting set up to start my build. I'm a wee bit nervous :oops:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Dave_Barrie

    Dave_Barrie Paddler

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    Nice....is that the old TV room?
     
  3. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    yup. 19 X 12 ish. Its a little tight... But the beer fridge is close by, so that's good.
     
  4. Dave_Barrie

    Dave_Barrie Paddler

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    I wanna be there when you take it out the new window 8O
     
  5. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    Sure! Bring tools. :lol:

    Stain test..

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  6. Dave_Barrie

    Dave_Barrie Paddler

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    We'll have to call it Barney :p
     
  7. mick_allen

    mick_allen Paddler & Moderator

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    hey darren,

    is that a nice clean umblemished carpet i see that you're vainly trying to protect under all that setup??

    but at least that window is in a good place to just break it outa there!
     
  8. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    The purple pygmy people eater :twisted:
     
  9. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    I don't care too much about the carpet, and I have wanted to put glass block where that window is. So this will force me to finish that project as well :D
     
  10. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    Yup, purple it is 8O

    [​IMG]

    I used a water based fabric dye to "stain" the wood. It raised the grain a bit, so before I glue the pieces together tomorrow I will give them a light sanding.
    I'm hoping that once the epoxy is applied, I will end up with a deep purple.
    If so, I will have a smoke on the water to celebrate. :lol:
     
  11. mick_allen

    mick_allen Paddler & Moderator

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    if you would have pity on the rest of us, what about a little heavy sanding instead???


    in all seriousness, do not sand at all. there will be a huge liklihood of knocking off a little of the colour here and there. instead put on a real thin seal coat NOW before drinks, wet hands, ham samwiches, ketchup, sweat from hard work(well, i guess you won't have to worry there!) affect the stain even ness.

    with staining your panels, you are in a quite different scenario than mark where he could carelessly sand here and there on the filled seams etc. you dont have that luxury and will have to be very careful - thats where the sealcoat now will help.

    get a semi fine flatfile and use that to shape the seams as you can accurately control where the cutting edge is so that you don't scrape off little pces of the stain here and there like sandpaper will.

    that being said, you will still make lots of mistakes that need to be touched up every now and again. both my s&gs have gone thru this countless time.

    seal now- but very thinly or lightly , and basically no more sanding - its too crude and uncontrollable for stained wood.

    you cannot be as fast as mark on your build because of this, but then mark will just end up with a plain old ordinary wood yak wheras yours will be a .., an ... , like this purgly ... pimgly.
     
  12. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    Mick's cautions about sanding are valid. The other way to go with sanding at edges is to attempt to make it as uniform as possible, so that the joints stand out a little, visually. This gives definition to your fine handiwork. The fine flatfile Mick suggests is an inspired notion.

    I had not thought about this feature of the seams until one day a guy new to sng boats asked me (re: the epoxied seams on my kayak): "How did you get those lines to be so uniform? You must have a really steady hand at painting!" He thought I had added them later, as highlighs for the lines of the boat! :)
     
  13. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    Thanks for the insightful tips guys! I used this technique (fabric dye) on a desk that I refinished a few years ago. It turned out quite nice (if you like yellow and blue 8O )
    I figure if the kayak turns out looking like crap, I will paint the whole thing after its done....

    Desk
    [​IMG]
     
  14. jurgenk

    jurgenk Paddler

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    Looks sweet Darren (the desk and the stain), and I look forward to seeing it when it is done.
     
  15. mick_allen

    mick_allen Paddler & Moderator

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    thanks,
    the reason that the flatfile is just so good on s&g boat is that the panels are basically flat (have to be) just like the file is(in at least one direction). that means you can glide the file over the panel and ALL the little teeth are supported by the panel and not much if any cutting happens.

    but if a drop or a seamglueblob is encountered, pretty well all of the cutting action can be concentrated there and nowhere else with just a little practice. thats why i think they're even more useful than scrapers. (as scrapers can bump up and down unfortunately)

    if one wanted to be a no brainer (and i know darren has no choice in this, heh heh) half of the file (or everything except the ctr) could be covered in a thin lyr of masking tape or whatever thin tape and that could glide over the panel as the cutting teeth just overhang the edge to get the seam glob or glueblob and nothing else.

    after a bunch of use, a few brushes with the file card cleans out all the teeth again.
     
  16. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    The second application of dye really made a difference in the colour.


    [​IMG]
     
  17. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    Since I now have what I believe to be complete penetration of pigment into the veneer. Do you guys still think its necessary to do a saturation coat of epoxy before I proceed?
     
  18. Mark_Schilling

    Mark_Schilling Paddler

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    Yeah, I would. I don't see any disadvantage to doing that - it'll also make the wood a lot harder, which can be a good thing when it comes time to sanding down the panel seams. You might want to bevel your deck and hull sheer seam edges first (as per the manual), as doing this after a saturation coat has been applied will be harder.

    Just a thought (and I'm sure Mick and others might have some insight WRT this...): applying a saturation coat on flat panels may make twisting and manipulating them into shape a little more difficult at the wiring stages. But I'm not sure if you'll risk cracking the epoxy with the rather minimal distortion that the panels are forced into. Even if it were to crack here and there, I can't imagine there'd be any damage to the wood, and it'd be easy enough to fix up come time to apply the fibreglass.

    Looking at the Pygmy manual, it appears that they've chosen to do a saturation coat on the panels before starting assembly (probably because the panels would photograph better). So, I don't imagine it'll create any major problems.
     
  19. Mark_Schilling

    Mark_Schilling Paddler

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    Darren has now completed the next step:

    [​IMG]
    :lol:
     
  20. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    No problem. You should be fine Darren. There's no glass on the wood yet so the panels will remain pliable with just a coat of epoxy.

    I'm not sure that I like the yellow dots. My youngest daughter, however, thinks that they're really cool.

    *****