Binding skeg—most likely cause? Best fix?

[chodups]

You’d think that after a while a good skeg design would arise, but it doesn’t seem that way. I would think that a tight skeg box would be more prone to jamming, once you get sand in it, how are you going to get it out. A little space at least gives you room to get a tool in there if need be. My P&H skeg has jammed once in 10 years, and still works flawlessly using a cleat for locking it. I carry a bent piece of coat hanger just in case but maybe I’m just really lucky, but it works very reliably. I have never replaced the cable or the bungee. It sure sounds like others are n having problems though.

I've owned 3 Sterling boats and every one of those has been a skeg-jamming wonder boat. Sand is a problem and, as you say, how to remove it. I wish they would switch Kool-Aids long enough to consider the virtues of an easy-to-clear-skeg-rattling skeg box.

 

[Tiger Shark]

I've owned 3 Sterling boats and every one of those has been a skeg-jamming wonder boat. Sand is a problem and, as you say, how to remove it. I wish they would switch Kool-Aids long enough to consider the virtues of an easy-to-clear-skeg-rattling skeg box.

I’d hate paying the big bucks for a Sterling and then have issues like that. Wow a skeg jammin wonder boat. That’s terrible. I know sand can be an issue in some skeg sliders too, plus they can just wear out over time, but the cleat works flawlessly. Sand is going to jam anything it can work it’s way into.

 

[chodups]

I’d hate paying the big bucks for a Sterling and then have issues like that. Wow a skeg jammin wonder boat. That’s terrible. I know sand can be an issue in some skeg sliders too, plus they can just wear out over time, but the cleat works flawlessly. Sand is going to jam anything it can work it’s way into.

No perfect boat out there and though the skeg crankiness annoys me it is an issue that I personally will gladly accept. Nobody has ever forced me to leave the beach with my skeg stuck.

 

[chodups]

This works well on most boats but not on Sterlings.

 

[ELS]

The other thing that can create skeg bind is sand/debris/salt in the cable housing. The solution is to flush the cable in its housing with fresh water every so often.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

I wish they would switch Kool-Aids long enough to consider the virtues of an easy-to-clear-skeg-rattling skeg box.

I think a loose fit in a larger box might open up the possibility of cable kinks - the point of the tight box is to keep the cable restrained between the cable slot in the blade and the wall of the box at all times.

 

[mick_allen]

You know I might just have emphasized that point a little much in my previous post - because the cable/wire comes in at such an angle that 'should' bridge the housing-skeg gap fairly well . . . most likely the tight fit is to mainly [mainly] control skeg movement - and control is what a skeg is all about.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

You know I might just have emphasized that point a little much in my previous post - because the cable/wire comes in at such an angle that 'should' bridge the housing-skeg gap fairly well . . . most likely the tight fit is to mainly [mainly] control skeg movement - and control is what a skeg is all about.

Leave a gap wide enough for the cable to 'jump' into (from the slot on the side of the blade) and -though unlikely- there could be a combined kink and jam that would be a real problem.
Just so folks know what we are talking about here are a couple of pics of my copy of Reg Lake's skeg design (the 'skeel' in my 16' Thomasson Frej).

 

[Man in qajaq]

Moral of the story: don’t depend on anyone else to protect Your skeg hole

Lol
This made my day...the confused images of various aspects of life that swirled around in my mind had me laughing like a 8th grader.

 

[cougarmeat]

I disagree with the posts I read that said tight clearances are a better design. I think tight clearances are the problem.

If there's a gap between the skeg and the box walls, sand and small pebbles can get in. BUT, they can also wash out. And if a pebble does get jammed, it's easy to see and get a hooked "puller" behind it if tugging on your pull-down string doesn't work.

The design challenge is to reduce any skeg "flutter" but even if the sides were closer, if there were side-to-side play in the skeg, it would still be there.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

I disagree with the posts I read that said tight clearances are a better design. I think tight clearances are the problem.

Have you used a boat with a 'Sterling-style' skeg?
My Frej has one and it's been absolutely trouble-free (and flutter free- the side pressure from the cable ensures that), and I use that boat quite a bit for day paddles.
It's also worth noting that if the skeg box is 'in the middle of the boat' (just aft the cockpit) it's easier to keep it off the sand (by lifting the bow), though that's not an easy option with a heavily loaded boat. But the skeg doesn't work as well to control heading in that position, compared to the standard spot aft the rear hatch.
Years ago I took the 5-day 'Kayak Camp' at BodyBoatBlade. Group size was perhaps 10 people (??) including instructors. Most of us were in NDK skeg boats (Romany/Pilgrim, etc. ) , and it seemed a daily occurrence for one of the guides to have to dig pebbles out of a skeg box.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

get a hooked "puller" behind it

Do you carry a tool for that? DIY or something purchased?

 

[CPS]

Have you used a boat with a 'Sterling-style' skeg?
My Frej has one and it's been absolutely trouble-free (and flutter free- the side pressure from the cable ensures that), and I use that boat quite a bit for day paddles.

I asked around amongst folks I know with Sterlings and jammy skegs are a recurring issue with them.

I guess it's all trade-off. My loose fitting Rope skeg never seems to jam, but sometimes I can sure feel the gurgle.

 

[ELS]

Do you carry a tool for that? DIY or something purchased?

I use my dive knife. I recall the designer of the Tempest (forget his name) had a table knife from which he’d ground away part of the tip to create a little hook. It was great for removing pebbles.

Be sure to drill a little hole in the bottom of your skeg and insert a little string with a knot in it so that friends can help you pull your skeg down when it sticks. It’s always better to do it in the water, as the water loosens the pebbles and gravity helps remove them as your friend pulls down on the string while you gently operate the skeg control.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

I recall the designer of the Tempest (forget his name) had a table knife from which he’d ground away part of the tip to create a little hook. It was great for removing pebbles.

A climber's 'nut tool' for retrieving nuts when cleaning routes could be handy for that:

In 'the days of the ancients' we used to use a cut-down shelf bracket for the same task.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

Be sure to drill a little hole in the bottom of your skeg and insert a little string with a knot in it so that friends can help you pull your skeg down when it sticks. It’s always better to do it in the water, as the water loosens the pebbles and gravity helps remove them as your friend pulls down on the string while you gently operate the skeg control.

A string that's long enough for the helper to wrap around their hand does the trick. After dragging around weeds on a few occasions, I learned that a loop (or even a nice bulky end knot) wasn't necessary for that pull-down string.
It's amazing that some manufacturers still don't provide a hole for a sting in their skegs. I'm on Bryan Hansel's email list (PaddlingLight.com) and this morning I received an email about 'drilling a hole in your skeg for a string'.

 

[drahcir]

It's amazing that some manufacturers still don't provide a hole for a sting in their skegs.

Nearly every time I get a new-to-me skeg boat, I drill that missing hole. Have I ever needed it? Yes, just once, but that made all the drilling worth while. Another thing I do when useful, is to put a mark on the deck so the person pulling the string, knows where to reach.