Building a Thomasson Frej

MarkVK

Returning Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2024
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41
Location
Seattle, WA
I'm undertaking the build of the Frej, a strip-built kayak designed by Bjorn Thomasson. I've talked with John Abercrombie (hereafter, assume references to "John" are John A) about his experience building two versions of the Frej, and even took a trip to Victoria to paddle John's boats and confirm that I enjoy the way the Frej handles. (Thanks, John!) I'm starting a thread to document my process.

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I'll be building in my garage space. It's basically a one-car garage (full of non-car stuff) with a room behind it where I'll be doing most of the work. The building is dilapidated and small, but I figure I can make it work. I've covered the walls with plastic drop-cloth material to cut down on drafts and dust. You'll see what I mean in the pictures.

This picture makes my garage look more crowded than it is because I've set up two portable tables with my neighbor's old table saw in between to rip the plywood for a strongback -- and on top of that, it started raining so I pulled some things back into the garage that were out in the driveway while I was working.

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I decided to use a strongback system based on what OrcaBoats.ca uses on his YouTube channel. I built a 16’ beam out of a 4’x8’ sheet of plywood. The top is 5” wide and it is glued and screwed together.

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I used a string-line to snap a center line and then penciled it in. The form supports are 4.5”x8” rectangles of plywood with two notches in the bottom and two in the top. At each station on the strongback, a 2x2 cross piece holds the bottom carriage bolts. I pulled a taut string from Station 1 to Station 12 and then adjusted each support for height and center line against the string and used the bottom carriage bolts and wing nuts to tighten them in place.

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Each wooden form is held in place on the form support using two carriage bolts (except form 1 and 12, which are only wide enough for one bolt and will use modified form supports (not completed yet).

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In addition to letting me paddle his boats and answering a whole battery of questions, John was extremely generous in giving me forms 2 through 11. This is super helpful, but I complicated things by deciding that the smaller sized Frej would fit my weight and use case. Accordingly, I have been tracing the smaller outlines from the Frej S plans onto the wooden forms and I'll be cutting/shaping the forms to the slightly smaller size and cutting the missing Form 1 based on the pattern traced from the plans.

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That's where I am as of today. I'll be traveling for a little while, so it will probably be two weeks or more before I post again. Thanks for reading this far!
 
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: You are making good progress - it's only a couple of weeks since you came up to paddle the Frej(s).
Arranging the infeed and outfeed tables makes ripping a lot safer- that's an excellent setup, which will be good when you are ripping strips.
 
I don’t know if you are going to use a skeg or rudder on this boat but I have a pair of SmartTrack rudder controls that I would be glad to gift to you if you will pay shipping from Boston. These pedals were used once for about 30 minutes
 
Mark,
Looking forward to watching this come together. The builds on this site are fun to follow (and really informative). Have fun and update often.
Doug
 
I don’t know if you are going to use a skeg or rudder on this boat but I have a pair of SmartTrack rudder controls that I would be glad to gift to you if you will pay shipping from Boston. These pedals were used once for about 30 minutes
As he is building his kayak, the sensible way to go is built his own, sensibly designed pedals. Make them full-foot with one position adjuster placed just in front of the seat.

As for SmartTrack rudders, the crudest design (vertical stow) possible and the same as I originally used 4 decades ago because they were very quick and simple to make.
 
Report 2:

Back from my travel and finally got almost all the forms cut (or reshaped) and set up on the strongback today. The setup looks a little ragged because a few of the forms are cut from an old painted plank I had sitting around and a couple of the others have copies of the plans glued on them. However, I'm really pleased with how it's all coming together.

The biggest issue I've encountered so far is that I should have made the form supports at least an inch taller. When placed properly, the bow stem extends a little bit below the top of the strongback. Rather than make a whole new set of supports, I just moved all the supports forward far enough that the stem extends past the end of the strongback and can hang down to the correct position.

Strongback with all 12 forms (no stems yet, that's next):

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Looking down the keel from bow and then stern:

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Just to get a better sense of how the hull will look I ran string along the shear, waterline, and keel:

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Just need to make the stern stem and the stem supports on the strongback and I'll be ready to start stripping the hull. There is a spot or two where I think I'll need to shave down some corners of the #1 and #12 form supports, but that will be obvious once I test fit strips.

I don't have strips yet as I've been mulling over lumber sources, prices, dimensions, and board lengths. It's time to make the leap on that front.

More to come.

Mark
 
I have always liked this step because the boat's actually not there and yet it surely is from implication alone!

The end form drooping down over the strongback seems a fine solution to the issue but there's no big problem with hacking a strongback if it's necessary, and then just gluing it back for the next project.

Good luck on the next steps, looking forward to seeing it take shape.
 
Just a couple more pictures. I've been fiddling around with the internal stems and supports for them. I think this is my solution. There are 5mm metal pins/dowels (unglued) joining each stem to its support. This holds the stem laterally, but the completed hull will lift off of the support.

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Do the "internal stems" then lift out of the boat afterward? If not, seems like a lot of mat'l to leave in the boat if I'm reading correctly.
 
Do the "internal stems" then lift out of the boat afterward? If not, seems like a lot of mat'l to leave in the boat if I'm reading correctly.
The Thomasson plans show quite large internal stems. When I built my Frej, I laminated smaller stems and modified the forms/supports to suit. When I cleaned up the inside of the hull (prior to glassing) I used a combination of trimming with a gouge and filling with fairing epoxy to smooth the inside of the hull.
Here's a pic of the stems on the 'quick and dirty' lamination forms (bending plywood is wonderful stuff to laminate - tape, not clamps required. :) ) :
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Do the "internal stems" then lift out of the boat afterward? If not, seems like a lot of mat'l to leave in the boat if I'm reading correctly.
I was going off the Thomasson plans. But now that everything is in place I'm understanding more about why John A laminated smaller stems. If I were to incorporate the stems I have into the boat I see two options: 1) do a lot of gouging/grinding to remove excessive material, 2) staple the strips to the stems (no glue) so the stems will lift out of the boat, but laminate and shape external stems to secure the bow strips.

Of course, I could also start over and do something like John did. My only concern there is that it seems necessary to laminate the internal stems if they are that thin and I'm wondering if they will have too much springback to match the desired curves. Also, bending plywood is kind of a specialty material and I'm not sure I can buy it in less than a large sheet.
 
2) staple the strips to the stems (no glue) so the stems will lift out of the boat, but laminate and shape external stems to secure the bow strips.
That would be quite tricky to do, I think.

My only concern there is that it seems necessary to laminate the internal stems if they are that thin and I'm wondering if they will have too much springback to match the desired curves. Also, bending plywood is kind of a specialty material and I'm not sure I can buy it in less than a large sheet.
If the laminations are thin, there won't be much springback, if any. Some experiments will tell you the story for your material and lamination thickness.
It does seem a bit crazy to get a full sheet of material when 1/4 sheet will do. In the 'big picture' of all the expense of building a boat, a sheet of bending plywood won't be a major item. It is handy stuff to have around the shop. BTW, bending plywood comes in two flavours - depending on which way the sheet rolls up. I recommend getting the sheet that will roll into a tube 4 ft long - easier to get into the car.
 
I could also start over and do something like John did.

might be worthwhile to seriously consider it, it's just a small re-step . . . sure will make it easier to deal with the inside of the kayak while glassing etc, and will remove a bit of weight too. Five or six 1/8" lams won't hardly budge: just glue your existing stem pcs together, cut off 3/4" and lay down some scrap lams [scraps are fine - it's lams!] and you're already there in an hour or 2.

Sorry for saying the above, but . . .
 
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Here's a pic that shows the stern form and laminated stem on my Frej:
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The stem was fastened to the form with screws, which were removed as the stripping reached them, though there was a screw driven into the forward end of the stem through the last mold. Those screw holes got plugged from the inside before glassing, if necessary.
The stem was also laminated 'extra long' and the bottom end was screwed to the strongback - this kept the stem from twisting, and also kept the stem attached to the strongback and the stern form, once there weren't so many screws.

You can see a couple of temporary scrap strips tacked to the forms to stabilize them, as my method for attaching the forms to the strongback was not very rigid. :) Things steady up in a hurry once the sheer strips go on.

Once the outside of the hull is glassed, you can roll the hull over with the forms still inside if necessary. It's easier to remove them 'from the top'. I also drilled alignment holes trough the hull into the forms so I could re-insert them after the inside of the hull was glassed. (Another luxury from painting the hull - plugged holes are hidden...).
 
Ripped strips today. Three ten-foot planks and two 12-footers. Seemed to go pretty well. I borrowed a contractor table saw from my local neighborhood association (they have a tool lending library) and bought a thin kerf blade, a zero-clearance insert, and a feather board.

Here's the basic setup (Note that the saw is on a shelf with legs cut to match the table height, and that the saw is pulled tight to the edge of the table with a nylon strap):
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I used this feather board when the plank got narrow enough:

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This sure doesn't look like a kayak!

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