Building a Thomasson Frej

late on this but - Bubbles under glass:
a simple way to deal with them is to use a syringe and inject [between strands] epoxy under at one end of bubble w/ small hole at other, inject and watch bubble disappear, weight down, and let set up. [ I've succesfully injected almost foot [30cm] long bubbles that way.]
 
Finished installing the skeg box.

Painted the cockpit interior and around the skeg box (in part to get a sense of how the paint goes on).

Taped the hull and deck together with strapping tape and determined that the hull and deck would not stay in alignment long enough for the fiberglass tape to set up fully on the interior (The hull at the shear had pulled together somewhat narrower than the deck amidships) SO horsed them carefully into alignment and tack/glued them in place using CA glue and accelerator spray. That kept them in place very well.

Shaped the bottom of the Redfish seat that my buddy Alex gave me.

Glassed the hull and deck together using wetted, rolled up glass tape that was placed inside the kayak and unrolled toward the end (with a chip brush on a stick for the far reaches).

Smoothed the external seam and filled a few low spots with epoxy filler.

Glassed the external seam.

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Took it out into the yard to try sitting in it and testing possible positioning of the skeg control box. Also put a spray skirt on the coaming for the first time -- fits perfect.

Need to put an epoxy fill coat over the external seam, then it's bulkheads and a lot of finish work. Really starting to feel like this thing is going to get paddled before the summer is over. Getting eager!
 
Almost finished with all the structural work.

Front bulkhead installed.
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Cockpit and day hatch bulkheads built and test fit.
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With seat in place.
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Bow shaped and glassed.
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Stern shaped and glassed.
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Lots of sanding and finish work left, but also lots of progress in the last couple of weeks.
 
The only things left on my Frej are paint, varnish, and deck rigging.

Glassed in the bolts for the footrests.

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Cut the recess and glassed in the skeg control box.

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Did a bunch of masking and spray painted black over the hatch recesses and cockpit to cover up all the places where sanding them smooth cut through the prior black layer.

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Going to do some sanding prep and put a coat of primer over the entire hull tomorrow. Paint will follow, then it's on to varnish.
 
Everything painted and varnished except the cockpit claiming, which I'll do next after masking off the deck.

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Varnish is probably the most difficult and often frustrating thing I've done in making this kayak. My usual strategies are to go slow and to go back to fix minor mistakes. You can't do either of those things and get a good finish with varnish. I did a 5 or 6 coats on top of the paint on the hull, then 6 coats on the deck. I thought I was finishing with my 5th coat, but I wasn't satisfied with it, so I went back with 320 grit to sand out most of the brush marks and other imperfections. Then I crossed my fingers and tried to channel everything I'd learned up to that point in order to get a better finish on coat 6. It's far from perfect, but I'm ready to call it done.

I think I'll be going out for my maiden paddle by this coming weekend!
 
The lights in a workshop always make the imperfections stand out. Get it on the water on a sunny day and it'll look like the work of art it truly is, even to the person who knows all of the inevitable imperfections.
 
Absolutely great! Congratulations on all the work you've done. Fantastic accomplishment.

**
Everything painted and varnished except the cockpit claiming . . .

while the coaming is non-gloss, stand back and squint your eye and imagine all the black [hatch drops and coaming] was satin as well. Will that make an interesting contrast and add more power to the gloss of the wood?
 
Absolutely great! Congratulations on all the work you've done. Fantastic accomplishment.

**
Everything painted and varnished except the cockpit claiming . . .

while the coaming is non-gloss, stand back and squint your eye and imagine all the black [hatch drops and coaming] was satin as well. Will that make an interesting contrast and add more power to the gloss of the wood?
I took your suggestion seriously, even calling in my aesthetic consultant (wife). We decided to stick with the fully varnished plan. I'm glad I thought about it, though. Thanks!
 
General Description

Frej (size S) designed by Bjorn Thomasson. Plans purchased at (https://www.thomassondesign.com/en/catalog/my-kayaks/frej)
Length – 15’ 9” overall, 15’ 3” waterline
Beam – 20”
Weight – 43 lbs. About 3 pounds more than estimated by Bjorn Thomasson, but I have a keyhole cockpit and other fiberglass work that added weight.


Miscellaneous Details:

Built using ¾” by ¼” strips ripped from clear (no knots) western red cedar planks.

Hull exterior and interior covered by 2 layers of “4 oz.” fiberglass cloth, with additional “6 oz.” layer over interior cockpit area and reinforcing exterior bow and stern.

Deck exterior and interior covered by single layer of “4 oz.” fiberglass cloth.

Hull painted with Interlux Mediterranean White.
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Deck and hull varnished with Halcyon clear gloss water-based varnish.

Sheer line covered by black vinyl boat striping tape buried under varnish.

Hatch recesses and rear cockpit recess are hand layup fiberglass over sacrificial molds made of rigid foam insulation. Spray-painted black under varnish.

Cockpit rim of hand layup fiberglass over cedar strip section uprights and sacrificial foam mold for lip. Spray-painted black under varnish.

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3d printed Maroske deck fittings (https://www.printables.com/model/621666-maroske-flush-kayak-deck-fitting).

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Deck perimeter lines are dyneema cord inside black irrigation tubing. Grab handles and paddle loops made of braided 5mm black nylon cord.

Greenland paddle holders on both front and rear deck – Front for temporary placement of paddle during launch and landing, rear for holding spare paddle when conditions warrant.

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Kajak Sport System 4 Rope Skeg

Sealect Hatch Rings and Covers – 10” round (F & R), 8” round day hatch

Redfish closed cell foam kayak seat

Slidelock XL Footbraces with extended footpads made of some plexiglass I had in my leftover materials pile.

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Review:

Kayak is a tight fit. Feet splayed/toes pointed with my size 11 feet. Larger foot pads on the braces helped with comfort. Should have placed rails higher on the side of the kayak.

Hull design is much different than my Romany, particularly at the stern where the Frej has a much more rounded profile with no concave curves. I think this design makes the Frej quite skeg dependent. It takes a lot of concentration to keep it in line when paddling straight with no skeg deployed. However, it's also skeg sensitive. 1/4 deployment is enough to make it track, and it will still turn very sharply when edged, sliding the tail of the boat sideways across the surface of the water.

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I feel like the longer waterline than Romany is noticeable. The Frej feels like it has more glide. It also seems to accelerate more quickly, maybe a function of both being significantly lighter and having a different hull design.

After years of paddling a Romany and a Nordkap, the front deck without an upswept bow made me feel like I was paddling downhill.

The Frej is an easy kayak to roll. The super low rear deck makes any layback roll simple, and makes doing a static brace easier than in any kayak I've tried.

Finding placement for skeg control box is tricky. Few flat areas suitable for mounting. The spot I selected is marginal due to contact with left quad/thigh during left-side rolls.

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Storage space is significantly less than my Romany (and much less than the Nordkapp), mostly due to the low rear deck. Using more, smaller dry bags would maximize the usefulness of the space.

This is how I get to the launch for my standard day-paddle.

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I really like the white hull with the wood. Hatches look sharp too. Very nice job. Be sure to carry something to clear that skeg box. It really likes to grab pebbles.
 
>Be sure to carry something to clear that skeg box.

If there is not one there already, I'd put a small hole (for something like 2.5mm cordage) at the bottom of the skeg and attach a small 2 - 3 inch tether to it. Often, just a little side and down pressure on the skeg is enough to free the pebble.
Practical hint: a small knot at the end of the tether makes it easier to grab with cold or gloved hands.
 
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