bulkhead repair

[Jill]

Looking for advice or ideas on how to remove a crooked ,leaky, wooden bulkhead. I finally cut hatches this past weekend after noticing the sound of slooshing water in the forward compartment [about 2 cups] . I know I could just put a epoxy cabosil fillet on the inside to fix the leak but I really want to straighten the bulkhead cause its crooked and it bugs me.
I really would just like to cut the fillet and reuse the bulkhead but that epoxy is tough stuff . Any Ideas or advice ? Jill

 

[RoyN]

Try a Dremel tool or similar small grinder. They have bits that will tear-up the epoxy, not to mention the wood and yourself if you're not careful.

 

[Astoriadave]

Looking for advice or ideas on how to remove a crooked ,leaky, wooden bulkhead. [snip] I really would just like to cut the fillet and reuse the bulkhead but that epoxy is tough stuff . Any Ideas or advice ? Jill

Re-using the bulkhead may be hopeless. Getting a start on a cut, through the fillet, will be the most difficult part. Probably a pin vise (let's you hand-hold a twist drill in a small (1 cm D) cylindrically-shaped chuck; available at modelers shops) is the best way to get some holes drilled next to each other adjacent to the hull. Then penetrate that area with a Stanley knife or similar and work a hacksaw blade (or flexible keyhole saw blade) in there and saw away. There are cheap handles sold in hardware stores that grip one end of a hack saw blade and leave the other end free.

With the bulkhead out, a Sureform tool run along the hull will take off most of the rest of the fillet, and roughen it up enough for re-attaching the new one.

Form a cardboard replica of the removed bulkhead, enlarged a bit, and jam it exactly in place where you want the new bulkhead. Drill an eighth or quarter inch hole in the center of a 2-inch D bottle cap, run a pencil point through it and run the bottle cap around the inside perimeter of the hull, marking the carboard as you go. The true perimeter of the bulkhead will be one inch out from the line you made.

Having access to both sides of the bulkhead will make installation a snap, this time.

Removing and replacing a bulkhead is a brutal job.

 

[Mark_Schilling]

Form a cardboard replica of the removed bulkhead, enlarged a bit, and jam it exactly in place where you want the new bulkhead. Drill an eighth or quarter inch hole in the center of a 2-inch D bottle cap, run a pencil point through it and run the bottle cap around the inside perimeter of the hull, marking the carboard as you go. The true perimeter of the bulkhead will be one inch out from the line you made.

Wow - great tip Dave! :idea:

I'm still planning on doing this in my Explorer - removing the existing bulkhead and replacing it with one a little farther aft (into the cockpit). It's not a job I'm looking forward to, but I am looking forward to the extra storage space it will allow in the forward hatch.

 

[Dan_Millsip]

Dave's method works -- you'll find the most frustrating thing about bulkhead work is that it's always in very confined, cramped working conditions. I've found it easiest when working on the interior of the boat to hang it or prop it up in an upside-down postion and then work standing up with your head and body in the open cockpit or your arms through hatch openings.

Make certain that you're wearing proper respiratory safety equipment -- fumes don't escape from the inverted boat very well.

*****

 

[DarenN]

hi Jill;
Dave's advice of starting with a small drill bit in a pin-vise is good but we can take it one step further. i have a small jewlers hand drill that spins the drill bit as you push the other end. this would be much easier than spinning a pin-vise with your fingers.
a loose hacksaw blade will do the job but you'll have to be carefull of the hull because the teeth of the blade are set to both sides. what you want to use is a flush-cut saw. these are designed with the teeth set to one side only. they can cut flat against a surface and leave it un-dammaged.
the jewlers drill i got at princess auto in langley.
the flush-cut saw came from lee valley.
hope that helps;
DarenN..........

 

[Astoriadave]

Daren and Dan's suggestions certainly should help a lot, Jill. I had forgotten about flush-cut saws. I should add to Dan's suggestion to suspend the boat at height so you can get as much of your body inside as needed: absolutely! and, you may find that raising or lowering the boat even just an inch or two will help a lot, if the initial position you select is uncomfortable or does not allow full extension of your arm.

I removed the seam tape on both intrnal seams of a badly-injured boat, once, the full length of the cockpit, and once I realized how critical its height was, the process got tolerable ... not fun, but tolerable!

 

[Jill]

Thanks for all the tips. Dave I really like the bottle cap idea to make the shape of the bulkhead. I'm beginning to think about just trashing the bulkhead and building a new one. My husband had a look and said "thats not coming out in one piece'', then he gave me a new hack saw blade. So I guess tonite Ill try to drill a small holes with the dremel, try to fit in the hack saw blade and have at it. If that doesnt work Then I will lay up a new bulkhead I have lots of strips and cloth. I'm just lazy. Thanks for the ideas Jill.

 

[Jill]

Okay, I got the bulkhead out last night . I drilled a little space with the dremel then tried to fit in the hack saw blade. I couldn't get that to cut very well so I used a piece of band saw blade clamped in vise grips. I had problems where it was tightly fit along the side and bottom. There are a few spots where I cut into the bulkhead. This morning I cleaned up the edges of the bulkhead and reused it. So its done , Thanks again for the tips. Jill

 

[Astoriadave]

This morning I cleaned up the edges of the bulkhead and reused it. So its done , Thanks again for the tips. Jill

Glad it worked out -- you are the determined, resourceful one, Jill. If there is a Bulkhead Removal Expert merit badge, you deserve one!