Dry bags

Discussion in 'Gear Talk' started by pawsplus, Feb 23, 2018.

  1. Peter-CKM

    Peter-CKM Paddler

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    It is a bit of playing with the opening of the trash bag to allow air out without letting air back in. Air can only escape from the mouth of the bag, not all around as with a standard compression system, so may take squeezing and loosing and re-squeezing to make it work. Probably not really use the compression part, but use it as a stuff sack.
     
  2. JohnAbercrombie

    JohnAbercrombie Paddler

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    That would work well with the (older? I don't see them so much nowadays...) compression sacs with the straps that go 'around' the bag - making it smaller in diameter - rather than the (more waterproof) type with the flap over the top attached to straps that reduce the length of the bag. So perhaps worth looking for that 'reduced diameter' style if the goal is to get the bag through a smaller hatch opening.

    A quick search shows that Kifaru and Wiggys both make 'radial compression' sacks, but there must be others. One of the best compression sacks I had years ago had a 'lace-up' compression system with two rows of eyelets. None of those sacks would be 'immersion proof', BTW. Unless there's some sort of valve or 'breathable fabric', I think the compression and waterproofing functions need to be separated...as with Peter's method with the plastic bag and stuff sack.

    And, there are combination compression sacks which tighten 'both ways' like this:
    compression sack.JPG
     
  3. JohnAbercrombie

    JohnAbercrombie Paddler

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    JKA:
    Those are the eVent Sea to Summit bags with the 'breathable' bottom?

    What size do you use to get through the Nordkapp hatch? M?

    I bought one of those to handle a very bulky synthetic bag and it seems to work well. Adding a 'cover bag' to protect the waterproof fabric seems like a good idea to me - it's definitely 'rain jacket weight' fabric, not pack cloth.
     
  4. pawsplus

    pawsplus Paddler

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    Does anyone know offhand what the NDK hatches measure (diameter)? My boat is suspended in my carport roof, so otherwise I'll wait until Sat., but thought someone here might know. :)
     
  5. JohnAbercrombie

    JohnAbercrombie Paddler

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    IIRC, on the Romany Classic the 'large' round hatches have about a 9" diameter opening; the day hatch is about 6.5 or 7" diameter.
    Other recollections: I couldn't get a 10L Dromedary bag of water into the day hatch. Also, a 'long and small diameter' item can be troublesome if it can't easily be turned parallel to the waterline. Example- it's easier to pack your tent poles separately in a narrow bag and lay them along the keel rather than rolling the poles inside the tent.
    So you definitely want to plan your packing in your garage/carport, not on the beach!
     
  6. JKA

    JKA Paddler

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    No John, I use the Small. The front hatch on my Nordkapp is a six inch one, like the day hatch. It's as waterproof as a frog's bum, but means taking matches out of the box to pack! :)

    Cheers

    John
     
  7. red kite

    red kite Paddler

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    Day hatch: 188mm ( 7-3/8" )
    Stern / bow hatch: 240mm ( 9-7/16")
    (All inside diameter/ actual opening measurements on a 2010 Pilgrim X and 2007 Explorer LV, every bit of my research indicates that they are still using the same rims. I don't have access to a NDK "pod", sorry.)
     
  8. pawsplus

    pawsplus Paddler

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    Oh, thank goodness! I wanted to get this cute little mess kit but was afraid it wouldn't fit. It will! Trying to pare down the camping supplies now that I have these itty hatches, and a regular plate won't fit in!
     
  9. Natasha

    Natasha New Member

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    One tactic I've used to fit sleeping bags in small spaces and ensure they are waterproof is to use regular (non-waterproof) compression bag for the sleeping bag and then put it in a larger dry bag. The compression bag ensures the sleeping bag remains compact. The larger dry bag will have some excess material relative to the compression bag but easily goes through a hatch.
     
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  10. designer

    designer Paddler

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    Paws, besides hatches, some boats have a space between the peddles and the front bulkhead where a sleeping bag in a compression sack can fit. Also, I’m told, if no one is looking, you can sometimes use one of the larger PVC bags as storage on the back deck. If concerned about complications with reentry, I switched to a “heel hook” method that is so much easier for me than “flopping on the back deck” method. And of course with your tight little boat, you’ll be rolling so fast NASA will say you are changing their clocks.
     
  11. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    Another illicit deck loader, right here. But not sure I would recommend that for a hull like Paws' NDK boat. And, certainly not for ventures in rock gardening or heavy surf zones.
     
  12. Jasper

    Jasper Paddler

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    I just put my larger dry bags in the hatch (half) empty and pack the bulkier items with the bag in the kayak. Easy peasy.
     
  13. Paddy

    Paddy New Member

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    Are those Amazon dry bags like Earth Pak and Marchway, good to buy?
     
  14. Peter-CKM

    Peter-CKM Paddler

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    Depends on your risk tolerance and how important it is to keep the items inside the bag dry.

    I have bought a no-name clip style dry bag for my phone (which is waterproof, so this was extra protection. The seams did let go a lot faster than I would have hoped, and faster than I have sen from more expensive clip bags like Aquapac bags. But it was backup protection, so I was Ok with that.

    Stuff I need kept dry I probably wouldn't risk in a non brand-name, untested bag. But things that would still be ok getting a bit wet should the bag fail would probably be fine.
     
  15. Pawistik

    Pawistik Paddler

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    Simple, just poke a few holes in the trash bag. (Just kidding.)

    Caveat: my hatches are larger than yours. I use a waterproof OR compression sack for my down sleeping bag. I have some small dry bags that go in first toward the bow/stern, and some a little larger that go in closer to the cockpit. I sometimes put a partially filled drybag in the hatch, add a couple more items, then seal it up in situ. I have a variety of drybags in a variety of materials. As others have pointed out, the drybags are sort of the suspenders in the belt & suspenders approach of storing stuff in reasonably watertight hatches. But, if it absolutely must stay dry, then I am using about 3 levels of protection - bag in a bag in a hatch, or ziplock in a bag in a bag in a hatch.

    I also have my kayak set up with straps to secure a drybag in front of my feet within the cockpit. I use the kayak for teaching and want to be able to stick a super tall guy onto the kayak, otherwise I'd move the bulkhead to reduce cockpit volume and increase the volume of the forward hatch.

    Cheers,
    Bryan
     
  16. JohnAbercrombie

    JohnAbercrombie Paddler

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    What sort of bulky items do you pack into the bag at the launch? I'm thinking about a mucky 'beach', a rainy day, and stuffing things into a dry bag as the tide is rising......
    Or, are the 'items' already in smaller dry bags?
     
  17. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    I load my larger drybags very full, make a loose roll of the excess, and then plonk my lower torso onto the bag to compress excess air out the loose, open opening. From that position, while laying on the bag, I tightly roll up the excess and seal it with the ladderlock fasteners. This forms the dry bag into a roughly elliptical cross section, and there is very little air left in it. These go into a compartment after smaller bags packed and rolled with less vigor crammed into the end of the boat, leaving some channels for longer loose stuff like tent poles, Sven saw, hatchet, rainfly in a nylon stuff sack (not a dry bag), sometimes a rolled sleeping pad, etc. The result is full use of the space in the compartment, with few voids. More bulky stuff like a cook kit, food bags, camp boots, maybe an MSR Dromedary bladder, gets packed last, with odd voids filled with fuel bottles, water bottles, , etc.

    This is slower than a mass thrash with all your dry bags, and some sand or mud gets in there, but it makes better use of the space in the compartment. Unfortunately, smaller circular hatch openings do not accommodate my methods.

    PS, others will flock around during the drybag compression phase, making rude remarks, but you have to be thick skinned!:):)
     
  18. JohnAbercrombie

    JohnAbercrombie Paddler

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    I have some Hyalite 'Pneumo' dry bags with Thermarest-style valves that I like for clothing. Fortunately, I can compress them (using the same 'lie on 'em' technique) in the privacy of my tent! :)

    It's too bad that those bags aren't made any more, and no other company is copying the idea. Perhaps there's a patent issue?
     
  19. designer

    designer Paddler

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    PawsPlus, my paddling partner uses the area between the boat peddles and the front bulkhead for her sleeping bag. But you said that area is small because the bulkhead was moved toward the peddles to give more room in the forward hatch.

    However, the dry bag she uses sounds like what Dave described - It's heavy black nylon with a circular rubberized port (hole) at the bottom to let air escape as you are pushing the sleeping bag in and compressing the dry bag. Once squished down, the circular port is closed. Though I sometimes wish the dry bag was half the size (it's a nasty scheme that when you go to buy a dry bag and you see a price for $24.95, that right next to it is the next size up for only $28.95 - how can you not buy that bigger dry bag for only a few dollars more - almost twice the space. But then you end up with a bunch of oversized bags that don't fit - or so I've read). But the larger size allows me to "shape" it a bit so I can make it more like a disc (think stack of pancakes) than a long tube. So it does fit in front of the peddles in an EddieLine Fathom LV.

    That said, I'm migrated to down gear myself. Now I still have lingering fears and remember a morning on Vargas Island where I exited the tent and EVERYTHING was wet - not from rain but from a prevailing mist. I wouldn't have been surprised if somewhere the theme from Twilight Zone or Outer Limits was playing. So I still keep a synthetic but unless I'm really sure it going to be a wet camp, I'll go with down.

    The way I see it - my trips are not taking me days out into the wilderness. If something goes wrong, gear-wise, I can always come home. I might have one uncomfortable night - but nothing life threatening.

    If you are mostly paddling alone and in remote places - that's another gear list. But if you are often with someone else or a group, and paddling in "popular" waters, then maybe you could get by with a lighter, more compressible, down bag that's easier to pack.

    I measure my storage space diameters and try to find the largest bag that will fit instead of a bunch of smaller bags. I've experimented with duffels in lieu of sacks and the duffel is not a complete success. It is easier to pack, but has a lot of straps, handles, etc. that make it excessively bulky and reduces the slide ability. I've considered cutting some of the straps off - like the top handle - but can't bring myself to do it. My goal is three bags - one for food, one for clothing, one for camp gear (tent, hammock, etc.), and then water bags if necessary. I'm not there yet - still learning.