electric pumps redux

Discussion in 'Boat and Accessory Building' started by kayakwriter, Nov 6, 2015.

  1. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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  2. pawsplus

    pawsplus Paddler

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    HOW COOL IS THAT??!?!?!?!! Wow. :)
     
  3. mick_allen

    mick_allen Paddler & Moderator

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    Thanks for this Phillip. I have been pondering about doing this for some of my boats for some time so all info is helpful.
    Is your system fused?
     
  4. BluenosePacific

    BluenosePacific Paddler

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    Yes it's fused, according to the text in the link.
     
  5. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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    Hey Mick,

    Glad it was helpful. As BlueNosePacific noted upthread, yes, the system is fused. You can see the white tube of the inline fuse at the bottom of the case in this picture. Though it's not shown, I like to throw a spare fuse and a silca gel packet (to wick moisture out of the damp air) in the box too.
     
  6. mick_allen

    mick_allen Paddler & Moderator

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    Very cool. Sorry I didn't notice the fusing text, maybe a few cells of my own were fusing. [hmm, maybe that would be called con'fused']. With those batteries, how many semi filled ckpts do you think it would empty?
    Do you carry extra magnets just in case? If you put the yak upside down does the switch kick on?
     
  7. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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    I've never tested them to depletion, but that set has done at least 5 cycles, and still has juice.

    Making a complete spare switch is on my winter projects list.

    Nope. Inside the glass tube of the switch is a metal strip, pre-bent to keep the gap open and the switch off. It's unaffected by angle and attitude. I imagine a really sudden deceleration would cause it to close and turn on briefly, say something like a rouge wave snapping your boat in half over the back of a reef. But that wouldn't be a problem, since you'd no longer have a cockpit that needed pumping...
     
  8. mick_allen

    mick_allen Paddler & Moderator

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    I don't know their availability, but I see that the Tsunami 500 draws 1.8 amp at 0' to give 600 gph whereas the Rule 500 draws 1.9 amp at 0' to give 500 gph. 20% better for less draw if the gallons are the same- can't tell if one's imperial and the other's US gal, heh heh. How did the Attwood 625 compare to the Rule 500 that you used this time?
    http://www.attwoodmarine.com/userfiles/store/product/files/990/0tsunamibilge_spec.pdf
    http://store.waterpumpsupply.com/runo12vodcbi.html

    **

    ps- do you get those rouge waves in red tides or was it just 'made-up', heh heh??
     
  9. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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    I've never done a controlled variable, head-to-head comparison. The Rule does seem to pump a little slower than I remember the Attwood pumping (as the 500 vs 625 would suggest). But my new boat is smaller than my old one, plus I spec'd the forward bulkhead further aft than Seaward's standard build for this model. That both gives me more cargo volume in the front compartment and reduces the floodable volume in the cockpit, by (my) design. So it seems to pump out in roughly the same time as my old boat.

    I'd imagine you'd get more of them after red wine than red tides :D
     
  10. RoyN

    RoyN Paddler

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    Friend recently installed n electric bilge pump in his new kayak. He used a sliding window switch from a home security system, These are magnetic switches that are easier to find than waterproof reed switches.
     
  11. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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    Hi Roy,

    I assume you're talking about these kind of switches?
    http://www.flairsecurity.com/wp-content ... Y-BMS1.jpg
    http://www.flairsecurity.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/1000-24SY-BMS1.jpg

    I knew about these, but wasn't sure how well they'd stand up to salt water. (Incidentally, the reed switch I used isn't inherently waterproof or shockproof - that's why I "potted" it inside a piece of PVC tube.)

    What did your friend use as a slider track for the activator switch? A thin piece of bungi running on the deck?
     
  12. scott_f

    scott_f Paddler

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    I'd like to see less rubber ducky marine environments destroyed in your next video...
     
  13. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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    All artificial waterfowl were successfully relocated to a new habitat after filming finished.

    https://youtu.be/cDy4PZPMDwU

    [shortyoutube]http://youtu.be/cDy4PZPMDwU[/shortyoutube]
     
  14. WGalbraith

    WGalbraith Paddler

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    Philip:

    Can't thank you enough for posting the Bilge pump idea. I made a couple of changes but the operation is the same and it really does work. I chose to use a 12V. camcorder battery (Model D1226 cost $33.96 at Trotac Marine in Victoria) that fit nicely into the waterproof case, Velcro mounted behind the seat. I can recharge the battery with solar or 120V. but after a thorough testing in rough seas last weekend, the battery barely discharged at all.

    When I drilled out the hull for the through-hull fitting, I was left with a round piece of fiberglass with a small hole in the center that fit nicely into the open end of a 3/4" pvc pipe cap. I used marine sealant to glue in a super magnet and poured in enough to cover it. I also applied enough sealant to fill the hole in the middle of the fiberglass piece. After the sealant dried I drilled a hole through the sides of the cap that is large enough to slide a deck line through. Finally, I epoxied the round piece of deck to the open end of the pvc cap. I have a small, visible, easy to activate switch even wearing gloves.
     
  15. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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    So glad the article was helpful. Great that we're all cross-pollinating ideas and putting our own individual spin on them. I'd love to see pictures of your version on this thread and/or in the comments section on my blog if you have the time.
     
  16. JohnAbercrombie

    JohnAbercrombie Paddler

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    You put a reed switch under the deck, which is activated by the magnet?
    Did you find one locally?
     
  17. WGalbraith

    WGalbraith Paddler

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    John:

    I bought the switch at Interior Electronics at 2017 Government Street in Victoria. It cost $3.57 . They have two types listed and the 1st try was unsuccessful as the switch fused together after the first current was run through it. The Hamelin switch I used was the more robust of them and I believe it could handle 6 amps rather than three. I soldered a lead to each end of the switch, sealed it in a 1/2 inch x 4" length of pipe with glued on caps. One cap had a hole drilled to allow the wire to leave, with an Underwriter's knot on the inside to handle any accidental tug on it. I sealed the wires in place with Marine Goop. The switch was anchored and padded by using a hot knife to carve up a piece of pool noodle to surround the switch. I epoxied a piece of Velcro to the side and the loop side to the underside of my deck. Once all the components were in place, I hooked an ohmmeter to the switch leads, then slid the switch along the deck line until the meter indicated that a connection was made. At this point I marked the spot with a Sharpie for ease of locating the switch with the magnet.

    Wayne

    Philip: I will take and post some pics on your blog when time permits.
     
  18. JohnAbercrombie

    JohnAbercrombie Paddler

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    Wayne:
    Thanks for the details - the pump was the easy part; it was the switch and battery that were tricky to get reliable, for me, when I installed a pump.
    John
     
  19. WGalbraith

    WGalbraith Paddler

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    ment]These pics might help with the visual gymnastics
     
  20. kayakwriter

    kayakwriter Paddler

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    Hey Wayne,

    Thanks for taking the time to post pictures. I like how the cut-out disc makes the switch "accessorize" with the boat. You planned it that way, right?:)