Greenland style paddle loop?

Sparky961

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I was watching a video today and the thought occurred to me "that might work well for me" while looking at just how easily the paddle was stowed and retrieved. I'm wondering how that loop stays rigidly vertical and open.

I looked around a while to see if I could find some info on boat building sites but had no luck without a deep dive. If anyone can post some close-ups of their own, or some links to detailed info that would be great!

Screenshot_20210608-170348~2.jpg
 

JohnAbercrombie

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1/4" black irrigation line from HomeDepot, with thin cord (or 1/8" shock cord??) inside would work.

But I think walrus hide would be more appropriate?
 

CPS

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Looking at how the light plays on it, I bet it's clear tubing. But what John suggests is probably more stylish.
 

Sparky961

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1/4" black irrigation line from HomeDepot, with thin cord (or 1/8" shock cord??) inside would work.

But I think walrus hide would be more appropriate?
The tubing part I get, but what do you suppose keeps it from flopping over and laying awkwardly flat against the deck?

Walrus might be a problem, but I could probably rustle up a sea lion. Would that be an appropriate authentic substitution?
 

JohnAbercrombie

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The tubing part I get, but what do you suppose keeps it from flopping over and laying awkwardly flat against the deck?
Perhaps Nootka's idea of a ball would help? (Of course, whatever you use must be black...)
Are you putting this on a skin boat or a glass or poly boat with deck fittings?
 

Kayak Jim

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I no longer have my skin boat so can't provide photos but I made bone "buttons" to hold the leather lines off the deck. The loops don't need to stand up as tall as shown to slide the tip of a paddle through.
 

Sparky961

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Perhaps Nootka's idea of a ball would help? (Of course, whatever you use must be black...)
Are you putting this on a skin boat or a glass or poly boat with deck fittings?
Yes, now that I try to picture it with balls on both extreme ends of the loop I can see how that might be able to keep it upright. I might have to experiment with that.

The boat is a Trak, which is unique in just about every way so most standard solutions to custom outfitting are out. There are triangle rings (similar to "D" rings) at intervals along the edge where deck meets hull. A bungee with clips is easily attached at any of these and stays put. There are also static lines that run the perimeter. These are loose, as they should be, which rules it out as a secure attachment point.

To add complexity the deck has a pronounced peak, maybe 120° or so. No attachment point in the centre, just the sides.
 

mick_allen

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As it has a pronounced peak, if tubing is used and the internal line is snug so that a gentle curve results with the top of the curve touching the peak: both the line will not move and there will be gaps to insert under at each side of the peak.
worth mocking up anyway.
 

nootka

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The ball is not to hold the loop upright, the ball is to lift the loop off the deck just enough to slide the tip of a greenland paddle under the loop - especially useful if it is a bungy cord.
 
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mick_allen

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Or another idea, because the deck is skin and maybe not rigidly,, rigidly tight, is to have a firm flush line or web or anything from side to side and when desiring to 'insert' the blade under just locally deflect the skin with paddle pressure as the line will stay taught and the paddle can go under.

heh heh, might wear the skin out over time tho', but no unsightly raised or floppy lines.

Another idea I think we've talked about a while ago is to take the line and wrap it once or twice around a 3/4" or 2cm diameter shaft of some kind [masked] and saturate just the wrapped section of line with CA and let set up well. Maybe even in 2 spaced locations for ea side of the deckpeak.
Then apply the line firmly betw the D hooks with the wrapped part of the line on ea side of the peak. The line will act like its own rolling ball or at least will raise the line above the blade as it is pushed into it.
Haven't tried it, worth an attempt!
 
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Sparky961

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The ball is not to hold the loop upright, the ball is to lift the loop off the deck just enough to slide the tip of a greenland paddle under the loop - especially useful if it is a bungy cord.
Yes, I understand how it's usually supposed to work. I was thinking they could also be used in a different way.
 

Sparky961

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just locally deflect the skin with paddle pressure as the line will stay taught and the paddle can go under.
This is actually what I've been doing up to this point. It works ok, but is still more fiddly than I'm aiming for.
 

JohnAbercrombie

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Would this be for stowing a spare (storm?) paddle, or holding your paddle while doing hand rolls or ??

That high loop in the picture doesn't look very secure.
 

Greg_B

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Jun 18, 2019
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Delaware
Take a look at this video on how to upgrade your deck lines.

(27) NORTHSEAKAYAK - The Deck Lines / Upgrading the Rescue Handles - YouTube

It shows using a plastic tube, cut a bit long, causing the deck line to bulge away from the deck, like you are asking about. I would think the same could be done for your application. If you find it flops over too much, I suggest experimenting with adding some small washers, or other fillers, at the ends, so they cannot bend over quite so easily. or tape to stiffen the line a bit.
 

JohnAbercrombie

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Take a look at this video on how to upgrade your deck lines.

(27) NORTHSEAKAYAK - The Deck Lines / Upgrading the Rescue Handles - YouTube

It shows using a plastic tube, cut a bit long, causing the deck line to bulge away from the deck, like you are asking about.
They have the right idea IMO but using the original deck line meant that they had to pull the line bar-tight after adding the two short tubes on the sections near the cockpit.
More tubing and a bit slacker lines would make grabbing closer to the bow easier, though some folks don't like 'the look'.
mini-deck lines northseakayak.JPG
 

Sparky961

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Would this be for stowing a spare (storm?) paddle, or holding your paddle while doing hand rolls or ??

That high loop in the picture doesn't look very secure.
This would be primarily for quickly stowing a full size GP. I agree that the one in the screenshot I posted does look a little big and loose. My plan was to make it tighter and closer to the bow to provide less space for the paddle to move around.
 
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