Hornby Island info?

drahcir

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Mar 26, 2010
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North Idaho (Sandpoint)
Six of us are headed for a stay on Hornby Island with a focus on visiting some of the art studios etc. However, we would like to include some kayak day trips. We have done many lodge based kayak stays on Quadra, Cortes, the Broughtons, Broken Group, etc. in past years. Perhaps Hornby doesn't look as enticing for kayaking as those destinations. I have found little information on the Internet. So I would hope some of you could pass along your experience on Hornby with some emphasis on launch spots, the currents in Lambert Channel, etc. Our ages range from about 70 to 85, so we are not seeking adrenaline rushes.
 
It has been a few years since I last paddled out to Hornby past Chrome Island. And another few I years since last I paddled about and around Denman and Hornby Island. The last time we launched at Deep Bay for a visit to Shingle Spit and the Thatch Pub, about 15 kms return. It was a great day trip.

In fact this is an area I would recommend for day trips and lodge or park based paddling. Lots of great and scenic places to visit on both Denman and Hornby: just look at the Marine Trails Map, Grassy Point, Sandpiper Beach, Fossil Beach; Sandy Island Marine Park and Morning Beach on Denman and the list goes on. All within an easy day paddle from various launch points, or longer if you choose.

It also has the advantage of both mostly protected and exposed paddling. The biggest thing to take note of is wind forecast and direction, but finding a leaward side to paddle on is usually pretty easy. Currents, not much in my view, perhaps some in Lambert Channel and around the ends of the Island when the tide is running. You can use an App such as Ocean Connect to check conditions while you are there.

The other thing to note, is these Islands are popular tourist spots, so a bit of an urban and tourist interface with the gorgeous natural features. For friends in the central Island area, this is a place they occasionally go for both kayaking and stand up paddling for a good day out.

I too am in my mid seventies and beginning to slow a bit, I will even admit to having used a water taxi twice in the past two years. Horrors!!! Tongue in Cheek. So these islands are the kind of place that still offer wonderful paddling at a slower, less strenuous pace for we old sea dogs.

Or then, you could take the walk on ferry over to Lasqueti and explore the wilder and quieter north and east sides. Just say'in. Enjoy your trip, and please post a trip report. There are quite a few older paddlers on the forum who would love to know how it goes.

Cheers, Rick
 
I found this short article with good images that gives you a bit of a taste for the area: Peaceful Paddling. It is written by a central Island local and has a bit about Sandy Island, definetely a place to visit if you go. I camped there a lifetime ago, before it was a park and it was absolutely wonderful.

Oh no, we may start a paddling rush to Denman and Hornby?

R
 
Hornby Island is a significant site for petroglyphs, many of which can be seen from the water. You can find a description of the petroglyphs' locations in Doris Lundy's famous thesis, The Rock Art of the Northwest Coast, available for download here. The Hornby Island petroglyphs are at document page 52, PDF page 62.

Better yet, if you can get your hands on a copy of Beth and Ray Hill's book, Indian Petroglyphs of the Pacific Northwest, you can find a precise map and photographs of the petroglyphs, at pages 125 (map) and 130–137 (photos). See if your local library can get you a copy of Hill through inter-library loan. If that's not an option, PM me through the forum.

Nearby Chrome Island is another major petroglyph site. Again, consult Lundy and Hill. Supposedly, the lighthouse keepers on Chrome Island will show you the petroglyphs if they think you're cool—which you definitely are, so no worries!

The local artists—ie, basically everyone on Hornby—know all about the petroglyphs, so whoever you're staying with should be able to help you find some. In fact, a lot of the artists incorporate themes from the petroglyphs into their own artworks!

Edit: Here's a link to an online scan of Beth and Ray Hill's book, Indian Petroglyphs of the Pacific Northwest. Just wait for the ads to finish, and you can click through. The Hornby Island petroglyph map is at document page 125, PDF page 129 of 328. Photos of the Hornby Island petroglyphs are at document pages 130–137, PDF pages 134–141 of 328.

Alex
 
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Lots of places to launch from on Hornby Island, including Fords Cove, Sandpiper Beach, Whaling Station Bay Beach, Grassy Point, Phipps Point (less sure about parking availability here) or the boat launch at Shingle Spit (ferry terminal).
 
We do one kayak trip every Spring to Hornby Island as we rent a house for a week during the low season. The best kayaking part are the Helliwell cliffs and best at low tide, it's like a marine aquarium. Also at the end of Helliwell are the Flora Islets with lots of sea lions and a good place to explore with one nice sandy beach facing St John point at Helliwell. Current can be strong in the narrow channel. Best to launch at Little Tribune bay and paddle all the way to Whale Station Bay via Helliwell with another car parked at Whale Station beach. The rest of the Island is easy to paddle and due to the short driving distance and having a 2 cars shuttle gives you leisure time to explore the different bays without tracking back. The Petroglyphs are not easy to find as you need to walk along to rocky shoreline. The heavy populated shoreline is between Whale Station Bay and Tralee Point with some interesting million dollar cabins.
Shingle Bay to Little Tribune is also a very nice paddle and amazing view towards Vancouver Island and Denman Island lighthouse.
Grassy Point to Phipps Point has interesting rocky shore paddle.
Have a great trip!
 
Just so you are aware, I believe Little Tribune is still the unofficial 'clothing optional' beach on Hornby.
 
Just so you are aware, I believe Little Tribune is still the unofficial 'clothing optional' beach on Hornby.
Back here at our local beach in North Idaho I find (at age 85) that people pay me cash (not bitcoins) to keep my clothes on. Maybe that will work at Little Tribune Bay.
 
The south end is where the marine life is busiest starting in February and peaks around mid-March because of the herring spawn. On some of those quiet still February days the south facing open places get sun and have a welcome slight warmth but just a few feet over in the shade the surface frost remains….. this was several years ago when a little bit of winter was normal… now we barely get more than a few days of frost

The original shoreline of Tribune bay was rocky , all the sand was barged in as ballast from the San Francisco area and the ship would take quarried stone back

Pay heed to the marine forecast as Hornby is exposed . SE , NW and the quick building sneaky SW “qualicum” winds all must be respected
 
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We stayed 5 nights on Hornby at Robin’s Nest (not on the water), which was suitable for we 3 couples - with Sept. 17 being the first of those nights. The lodging was clean, convenient, and reasonably priced. Our 4 day trips enjoyed great weather. Beforehand, I was concerned about appropriate launch sites but information gathered from this web site was what we needed.

Winds were generally from the north and northeast so we avoided the north side of the island. The launch sites we used were
  • Little Tribune Bay
  • Ford’s Cove
  • Phipps Point
Keep in in mind that we are not adventuresome paddlers – ranging from one senior with an ailing arthritic shoulder (me) to an athletic 67 year old beginner.

We did see critters with special mention going to the harlequin ducks, oyster catchers, loons, a surf scoter, river otters, seals, sea lions, and humpback whales – one of which came near to show off its lobtailing.

The island seemed slightly busy for ‘off season’, but not inordinately so. Yet we still could find art activity, open restaurants, and the remnants of the farmers’ market.
 
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