I'm really curious to find out how this technique works for you while you're wearing your normal paddling kit.
Thanks,
John
Great question John, and I'm rapt that you spent the time to dial in your R&R, before discovering that it didn't work for you.
First, I think you've highlighted the dangers of 'training effect', where we 'make' a technique work in limited circumstances and trust it to work in others. This is very evident in another of my interests, martial arts, where we have to challenge ourselves NOT to react in a trained way, as untrained people are likely to do anything! I know how to minimise damage to myself when a technique is applied to me and my training partner may anticipate that and react to it, setting them up to 'expect' that reaction.
Anyway, back to rolling.
A few caveats: I find that outrigger-style paddle-float rescues, that are conducted in 'real' conditions, often leave the kayak with lots of water in the cockpit. I largely discount the one-armed-shoulder-press-while-treading-water exercise to empty a kayak as a bit of a gimmick. Try that with a loaded kayak in lumpy water and 20+ knots. Better have an orthopaedic surgeon on speed-dial!
I acknowledge that the kayak is more stable to empty once the paddler is back in, because of the outrigger.
I have tried replacing my spray skirt while seated and upside down, as is the "Gold Standard". My breath hold ability doesn't allow that to be realistic AND I discovered that the kayak did not have much less water in it when that was done. It didn't scoop up more water, to my surprise. YMMV.
To your question about how to get in smoothly while wearing your normal paddling gear, (my summery of your query, my apologies if I have that wrong) I have a drill that I use. I'll try to explain it here.
If my kayak, when upside-down, is on my RIGHT side when facing the stern, I'm doing a RIGHT side roll. That means the RIGHT blade is facing forward. I'm holding the paddle, with the blade orientated correctly, in my LEFT hand, with my palm up and with my thumb inside the LEFT (closest to me) side of the upside-down cockpit. I will often slide the paddle shaft forward in my LEFT hand until the LEFT blade is touching my LEFT hand. My RIGHT hand is reaching under the kayak, holding the RIGHT side of the cockpit with my thumb inside, palm up. Remember, I'm still facing the stern.
I take a deep breath and drive myself under the water by extending my arms. With my arms straight, I bring my legs between my arms, into the cockpit and onto the foot pedals. I lock myself in place, reach up to the paddle with my RIGHT hand (my LEFT hand is still holding the paddle and cockpit) and roll.
The extended paddle roll (Pawlatta) helps due to the open cockpit slowing the rotation. If you have the breath-hold capacity you could replace the spray skirt prior to rolling. My concern is about letting go of the paddle in dynamic conditions to allow this.
There are two variations, one a choice, one sometimes forced as you mentioned. Some people have found an advantage to pause when they have straightened their arms, and actually come up into the cockpit to catch their breath. They then push away and summersault into position.
The other situation happens when as they extend their arms to push themselves under the water the kayak just rotates and they're on their side. This is frequent in lively conditions, and I think that's what you said happens to you when wearing your regular paddling gear. I have found that by doing the set-up as described, the time spent getting into the seated position is so quick it makes little difference.
So now you're upright, breathing air, but with no spray skirt and a kayak with water in the cockpit, in the same conditions that spat you out! Not ideal, so this is where all that training paddling a flooded kayak pays off!
I'm not being flippant: it's a bit grim but your whole situation is so you need redundancy. Thermal protection, bracing skills, friends nearby who have the skills to help, a low-volume cockpit, foot pumps, emergency communications...
If my R&R doesn't work (it didn't once in a real-world situation) I attach my paddle-float and do a paddle-float re-entry roll! Exactly as described before, except now I have the float to help the roll and as a brace when upright.
I have trained and practiced R&Rs in the wild tide races of Penrhyn Mawr, Anglessey, North Wales, and in the cold waters of Prince William Sound, Alaska. It failed (through a lack of practice and skills erosion) in my local waters in 10°C water and 30+ knot winds. I immediately switched to a paddle-float R&R and it worked like a charm. That was a great lesson.
I don't know if I've helped or added anything of value to the conversation, but I hope to encourage paddlers to consider what could really happen, and to plan and train accordingly.
An amateur trains until they can do something. A professional trains until they can't fail.
Cheers
John