Making and unmaking holes in a fibreglass kayak

CPS

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A while back I picked up a Romany from a very generous couple in Seattle. It was in quite good shape overall, and with a day's work I had the skeg working and all the deck bungees replaced.

It featured an integrated pump, with a handle which stowed in a recess on the deck.

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I was able to get the pump working again with a bit of work, but ultimately I was not a fan of the arrangement. It look up a lot of space and was prone to grabbing my feet during wet exits. While I considered keeping the pump as a novelty I eventually decided to remove it. This is a boat meant to play in some conditions, and I wouldn't want to be worried about being hung up on the pump.

I removed the pump, as well as the foot braces, and cut the front bulkhead out. I think a slightly smaller cockpit will work to my advantage. I'm planning on using the bulkhead as a footrest, and I'll gain a bit of extra storage as well. The original foot pegs were binding up, and quite tough to adjust.

I then removed the recesses on deck. With the kayak upside down on sawhorses I was able to get good access with a grinder.

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It was messy work.

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Once I cleaned up the kayak and myself I started preparing for replacing those portions of the kayak which were now holes -four small holes where the foot braces were mounted, one medium hole where the pump outlet was, one large hole where the pump was mounted, as well as one long slot where the handle was stored.

Using some packing tape I was able to cover the gap and keep the shape fairly well.
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I then reinforced the tape with a few pieces of cardboard.

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This would give me a good surface upon which I could lay up some new glass.
Raiding the scraps at work I opted for several layers of chopped strand matting, with a layer of roving thrown in for good measure.

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I used polyester resin which is a bit less friendly to work with than epoxy, but has the benefit of curing much faster. I topped each repair with a layer of peel ply.

Once everything has cured I removed the cardboard and packing tape.

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The surface was overall quite smooth, though there were a few small voids around the edge. I sanded a bit to prep the surface, and then used some fairing compound. I neglected to take a picture at that stage, but once it was cured I sanded each repair area smooth.

The areas were then masked off and gelcoat was applied.

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The colour isn't a perfect match, but it's good enough to take on the water. I sanded it smooth, but again neglected to take a photo. I'll update with more pictures later.

But what about the bulkhead? Since it was such a sturdy panel I opted to reuse it, and add some more material around the edges.
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It's currently curing overnight but I'll try to take some more pictures tomorrow.
 
Did you have to tint your gelcoat or did it come pre-mixed yellow?
It looks pretty close to the original colour.
Colour matching scares me! :)
 
The yellow is the same one we use when making Clipper canoes, so it's straight from the drum. It's a bit more orange than the original, but I can live with it.
 
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Here's the finished deck.

And here's the bulkhead. Not the prettiest but it's good and strong. I'll add some minicell padding to it next.

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Overall I gained a fair amount of room in the forward compartment, maybe 8-10 litres.
 
CPS, if I'm picturing this correctly, you removed the pump in the cockpit, then move the bulkhead, which was behind the bulkhead, to a position closer to your feet - opening up more room in the forward hatch? If that's the case, you should be fine because you've increased the boat bouncy by enlarging a watertight compartment.

At first read, I thought you had removed the pump and bulkhead entirely a la "Mariner" design. That would give you lots of storage - remember to put a tether on the first item to go in - but reduced float-ability if the kayak were swamped (as is apt to happen with a "play" boat).

So this comment is just to make sure you didn't give up any flotation or if you did, you'll compensate by paddling with additional float items.
 
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CPS, if I'm picturing this correctly, you removed the pump in the cockpit, then move the bulkhead, which was behind the bulkhead, to a position closer to your feet - opening up more room in the forward hatch? If that's the case, you should be fine because you've increased the boat bouncy by enlarging a watertight compartment.

Exactly!
 
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Here's the finished product. There's a bit of a gap around the edges because I couldn't be bothered to account for the taper off the kayak. It's nice and snug, especially with the little deckline protrusions pinning it in place.

Hopefully I have a chance to take it for a spin soon.

I'm also considering removing the original seat and sculpting one from minicell. A project for the future.
 
Great work! I love foamed-out bulkheads — much better than footpegs, imho.

One thought about the seat: advocates of the FG seat claim that the slippery surface is better for getting torso rotation. I myself don’t buy that (or maybe I just don’t care) and I’ve replaced a couple of FG seats with foam. But maybe it’s worth considering before you remove it.

Cheers,
Andrew
 
I'm also considering removing the original seat and sculpting one from minicell. A project for the future.

One thought about the seat: advocates of the FG seat claim that the slippery surface is better for getting torso rotation. I myself don’t buy that (or maybe I just don’t care) and I’ve replaced a couple of FG seats with foam. But maybe it’s worth considering before you remove it.

Cheers,
Andrew
I am definitely a fan of those original NDK seats. :)
I made a mold from the NDK seat in my wife's Romany and have been putting replicas in my boats since then.
And if you sit up straight you don't need a backband with them. BodyBoatBlade (Leon Somme & Shawna Franklin) taught me that. :)
They are just a bit better than the hard seats in the Broze Mariner boats.
Y'all can just mail your old unwanted Romany seats to me; I can find good homes for them! (Replacing those awful Nimbus mesh covered foam seats with the Lazy-Boy high backs, for one.... ) :)
 
I am definitely a fan of those original NDK seats. :)
I made a mold from the NDK seat in my wife's Romany and have been putting replicas in my boats since then.
And if you sit up straight you don't need a backband with them. BodyBoatBlade (Leon Somme & Shawna Franklin) taught me that. :)
They are just a bit better than the hard seats in the Broze Mariner boats.
Y'all can just mail your old unwanted Romany seats to me; I can find good homes for them! (Replacing those awful Nimbus mesh covered foam seats with the Lazy-Boy high backs, for one.... ) :)
Another member of the NDK Brotherhood of pain.:p
 
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I use a smooth fibreglass seat in my quick boats, but was thinking of something with more connection in this kayak. Maybe I should just rip out the backband and do without. It's currently so loose as to be pointless anyhow.
 
I use a smooth fibreglass seat in my quick boats, but was thinking of something with more connection in this kayak. Maybe I should just rip out the backband and do without. It's currently so loose as to be pointless anyhow.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: If you feel the need for a 'back reminder', adding a foam block on the aft bulkhead would do the job. I don't like giving up the stowage space behind the seat, but on a 'play' boat, it probably doesn't matter so much.
 
I had the pleasure of taking part in a skills development clinic with a group of ladies. The memory aid we had was "tits up" and though I can't say I've got much in that department, I still think of that whenever my posture starts to go.
 
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