"Old" Arctic Tern Ready to Hatch

Discussion in 'Boat and Accessory Building' started by Tarponteaser, Feb 7, 2007.

  1. Tarponteaser

    Tarponteaser Paddler

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    Morning Dave and thanks for the advise,

    My gameplan is to glue the buttjoints of the "virgin" panels first this time and trace the outlines of the whole panels for a template for the reglue panel job. This should provide me with a better alignment when I reglue the "used" panels (in theory anyways).

    Looking at the original joints, it is apparant I used way too much epoxy then...now I know better and will have the proper sized blocks and weight to put on the mylar tape.

    Speaking of the mylar tape...I recall a thread where someone used the mylar sheet protectors(like for binders or reports) to make larger pieces to cover the joints and get smoother/better buttjoints.

    I can't wait to get all this 'repair' work behind me, epoxy the buttjoints, and start stitching the boat together. My son asks "How is the sanding coming Daddy?" everytime I spend a couple minutes at it...it will be fun to watch his face the first time he sees the hull stitched together and can fathom that it really is a boat and not just a bunch of wood I'm sanding.

    Regards

    Randy
     
  2. Rootman

    Rootman Paddler

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    They work. You can get these at OfficeDepot or OfficeMax.
     
  3. Tarponteaser

    Tarponteaser Paddler

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    Well gang, yesterday I glued together the first of the buttjoints and hope I didn't mess up. I used an 8x11 mylar report cover to cover the joint and carefully used the squegee to remove any air bubbles from under the mylar before placing the wood block and weights on the joint. Any excess epoxy was gingerly squeegeed out from the edge of the wood block to have a smooth surface. I'll look at the results after work. The wood color really is nice when wetted out with epoxy...will have to see how things look when a stained panel is wetted out.

    Regards

    Randy
     
  4. Tarponteaser

    Tarponteaser Paddler

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    Morning all,

    After gluing a couple of the panels together, I had a mishap where the corner of the fiberglass tape lifted up a bit and came off from the edge of the panel. The joint does not seem to be impacted and it is on the inside of the keel panel.

    Should I:
    1. put a dab of epoxy under and over the spot and weight down to reglue the tape,.or
    2. trim off the tiny bit of lifted tape and put a dab of epoxy over the spot to smooth off, then carry on

    Thanks

    Randy
     
  5. Tarponteaser

    Tarponteaser Paddler

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    Deck Reinforcement plates

    Morning Everyone,

    The work on the tern has been a bit slow with other things going on, but I'll be gluing the last panel buttjoint today.

    Quick question...

    Has anyone trimmed the deck reinforcement plates a bit smaller and beveled the edges before gluing to the deck? (the instructions call for cutting the piece a bit wider than the panel, glue, then trim flush to the panel edge). Seems like a neater job if the piece was cut smaller to begin with and beveled on all 4 sides before gluing...just have to be carefull about the piece sliding out of postion on the glue layer before setting.

    I thought I had read a thread somewhere about someone doing that, but cannot recall where (and I've read a lot over the last few months).

    Thanks for all the tips...the syringe and ketsup bottle idea is perfect for working on one panel at a time....small batches easily made with no waste.

    Regards

    Randy
     
  6. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    Tarpon,

    I beveled the fore and aft edges, only. You want those port and starboard edges a little long so you can bevel them flush when you get ready to stitch the deck to the hull -- making nice, tight joints. Pretty hard to get that bevel (and side-to-side placement of the reinforcement pieces at the butt joints) just right ahead of time.
     
  7. RoyN

    RoyN Paddler

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    Every time I've tried laminating two pieces of wood together using epoxy the joint has always shifted a little, sometimes a lot depending on the amount of epoxy between the two pieces of wood. Unless you plan on tacking the two pieces together with thumb tacks or finishing nails, I'd go with the larger pieces then trim later.
     
  8. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    Same here. If you are careful with finishing nails, presetting them so the points are just barely protruding from the surface the glue goes on, you can tap them into the other surface just a little to maintain registration during cure. You'll have to weight the joint between the nails, though, so they are not driven all the way through the other piece, if you want the outside deck surface to remain unholed.

    When I did my Pygmies, I just drove small brads all the way through and lived with the holes -- they are very small and hardly visible after the brads are pulled and the deck is saturated with epoxy, then glassed.
     
  9. Tarponteaser

    Tarponteaser Paddler

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    Thanks for the insight. I did notice the 2x4 on the mylar had a tendancy to want to shift a bit when the weight was placed on it to glue the panels together. If the reinforcement block is a bit wider than the panel, I can place 2 nails in the workbench on each end of the reinforcement to keep the wood from shifting when the weight goes on....something I would not have been able to do had the parts been trimnmed up a bit smaller.
     
  10. sushiy

    sushiy Paddler

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    Re: Deck Reinforcement plates

    That was me who got big back plate shift.
    http://www.westcoastpaddler.com/communi ... sc&start=0
    There, you can read Astoriadave's tip on it not to have it happen ( Nov. 27th), and what you can do if it happened.

    I think, if you make it smaller, and fill the gap with thickened epoxy, you get more weight. Every ounce count...

    I recomend silica filler for fillett, insted of wood. it is white so I won't like it on outside, but inside work, it is a lot lighter and stronger ( means less fillett = lighter). That is something I would use next time.
     
  11. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    Sushi wrote: I recomend silica filler for fillett, insted of wood. it is white so I won't like it on outside, but inside work, it is a lot lighter and stronger ( means less fillet = lighter).

    Sands easier, too. The wood flour-filled fillets are tougher to sand cleanly.
     
  12. Tarponteaser

    Tarponteaser Paddler

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    Easier sanding is good in my book! I found a "filleting recipe" that calls for 1 part epoxy
    1 part cabosil
    2-3 parts wood flour

    I'm going to experiment with mixing up a batch of the fillet mix with the wood flour shipped with the pygmy kit and another with some maple wood flour to fillet the reinforcement panels...I'm hoping to find a good contrasting color with the maple/silica mix that might be good to do the outer hull/and or deck seams.

    I'm also leaning towards making maroske fittings on the deck for the decklines, and not drilling a toggle hole in the stern and bow of the hull. Rather than use fiberglass tape to wrap the underside of the tube fittings during construction, I'm thinking of borrowing another's idea of using chopped glass strand fibers in the epoxy as a filler/reinforcement.

    Using the chopped strand versus fiberglass tape might make the fittings a tad heavier, but they should be stronger and quicker to make. Perhaps I can shave some weight off by using cabosil as a filler in the endpours?
     
  13. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    I made my end pours even lighter by using a piece of cedar shaped to fit:

    [​IMG]

    Ended up using a very small amount of thickened epoxy to glue it in place.

    *****
     
  14. Tarponteaser

    Tarponteaser Paddler

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    Thanks for the reminder Dan,

    What size stock did you use? If the Big Box store here carries cedar 2x4s, maybe I can cut 2 pieces off one and carve to fit. Then I can use the rest of the 2x4 to make a greenland paddle one day.
     
  15. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    I've no idea -- it was just a scrap piece of cedar that was kicking around.

    *****
     
  16. DarenN

    DarenN Paddler

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    Really? 8)

    I recall very clearly that it was cut from a piece of 2X4 stock. :lol:

    DarenN.........
     
  17. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    :roll:

    *****
     
  18. Mark_Schilling

    Mark_Schilling Paddler

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    I guess this is one case of one person's 'stock' is another's 'scrap'. Perhaps it helps to know who was using who's shop. :lol: :p
     
  19. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    It's all scrap to me (unless it's something that I need).

    I guess is was a 2x4 -- in fact, I think it was a 2x4 that Daren told me he was saving to make a paddle out of. :oops:

    But you could use a piece of scrap if you can find a suitable piece. :lol:

    *****
     
  20. DarenN

    DarenN Paddler

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    actually, it was probably my own fault for not being totally clear. i told Dan i would leave a piece of 2x4 out for him to use in his end pours. i neglected to mention that it would only be about a foot long. he saw the nice long clear length and probably thought i was being such a nice guy for giving up such beautiful wood for his use. it wasn't a big deal, then or now. 8)

    DarenN.......