Peel's Coho build

Discussion in 'Boat and Accessory Building' started by Astoriadave, Feb 28, 2006.

  1. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    Are you going to do the adhesion test described on page 10 of their Epoxy Book? They used to advocate the use of aniline dye-based stains, which are reduced with water, and have no oil-based vehicles in them, but I could not find that in this version of their Epoxy Book.
     
  2. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    I'm doing the test advocated in the most recent version of the epoxy book (2004) that came with my kit (not sure what page it was on). I stained the wood, let it completely dry (2 days), saturated the wood with epoxy, and laminated on two pieces of fiberglass tape . I left a “tail” on the fiberglass. After waiting a couple of days (tonight) I'll grasp the tail with a pair of pliers and try to peel the tape off the substrate. If the tape tears where the tail starts, leaving the balance of the tape bonded to the surface, then the bond is good. If the whole thing pops off intact then the bond is bad and the stain is interfering with the bond strength.

    I've searched the SystemThree book, and their website, and can find nothing about a preference for aniline stains over oil based. They do say that dye stains are better than pigment stains as there will be no film, but that both should bond well if the stain is fully dry.

    We'll know tonight!
     
  3. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    Pete, that's the test ... I'm interested in how it turns out ... Olympic makes some very nice stains, and if I can use those in lieu of the dyes, that would be good! :)
     
  4. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    What I like about the Olympic stains is that they don't absorb instantly into the wood, which keeps them from streaking and showing overlap marks like aniline dyes can, but when left on for about 10 minutes, they penetrate fairly deep into the wood.
     
  5. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Test results are in

    I pulled the fiberglass tape last night, and it held. The tape ripped at the point where the tail met the block of wood. Interestingly the edge of one piece of tape delaminated from the underlying tape, but there was no disturbance to the bond with the wood. So I'll stain all the parts tonight, and begin the build on Friday.

    Before:
    [​IMG]

    After:
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Stain Test

    I decided to test the stain color on one of the bulkheads. I figured if I didn't like it, my feet would be the only ones that would have to live with it :?

    [​IMG]

    It's Olympic interior stain, American Cherry. I like the warm rich color, especially compared to the unstained okume. I'm playing with doing a different shade (mahogany?) for the hull, and this for the deck. I'll do another sample tonight and make up my mind.
     
  7. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    Nice!
     
  8. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    Peel, that stain looks really nice on the bulkhead -- it looks like it will be quite a lot darker than the unstained okoume. It'll be interesting to see the other colour that you choose.

    *****
     
  9. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    I moved the off-topic posts about Rootman's build to a thread of it's own -- might as well have everyone who's building a kayak with their own thread. :D

    *****
     
  10. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    That stain looks terrific -- very rich. Should be very sexy on the boat.
     
  11. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Well, I tested a couple other stains last night, but thought that by the time I got enough contrast with the Cherry stain, they were too dark, and were making it hard to see the beautiful grain of the wood. So it looks like I'll just do the entire boat in Cherry.
     
  12. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    The cherry will look awesome. 8)
     
  13. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Change of Venue

    I was all set to start my build last night with the staining of all the pieces. That is until I found that my workspace, my basement, had sprung a leak. With all the rain of late the ground has become so saturated, that it started to come up through my concrete basement floor - about 1/2" all around :( . At least the space is unfinished, and I hadn't yet moved my kit and supplies down there, so no damage done.

    Looks like I'll be doing this build in my attic instead. It's a 12'x30' space, that's got 8' height to the roof ridge, but more importantly it's dry. I know what you're thinking: "building a boat in the attic? 8O Is he crazy?" Well, maybe, but not about this. I've got a 18x32" window that can be removed, and there is a sloped roof right outside the window, the lower edge of which is only 6' above the ground. So with the help of a friend, I should have no problem getting the finished kayak out of there.
     
  14. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Workspace

    This will be my home for the forseeable future:
    [​IMG]

    Here's a shot of my escape route - the windows are easily removed:
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Ready to go

    I put down a layer of heavy duty kraft paper (brown packaging paper) last night, and laid out all my pieces. It's amazing how much room it took to lay everything down. 54 pieces in all, including the hatch kit. This pretty much took up my entire workspace. But once they're all stained and the butt seams glued, I can stack them to the side and reclaim a little of the space (I hope :? )

    [​IMG]

    After spreading everything out, I set to staining the pieces. This took a little longer than an hour. I found that if I stained 6 of the 8' long pieces at a time, then wipe the stain off, that I could proceed at a steady pace and get an even stain on everything (this allowed about 10 minutes for the stain to setup before being wiped off. I applied the stain using a clean piece of T-shirt material, which I bought in a bag at the home store called "wiping rags". I liked this method, it was more direct than using a brush, and probably a little faster too.

    Here we are with everything stained:
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Well, I went up this morning and checked on my stain job from last night. It looks good; the wood all took the stain evenly, and the tone is consistant from piece to piece.

    On a few pieces the stain was wicked by the end grain at the end of the piece onto the opposite face. Originaly I had been thinking I'd do the outside in Cherry, and leave the inside the natural Okoume. But it now looks like I'll be staining the inside face of the pieces as well. What this means, however, is that I'll need to remove the labels from the pieces to stain the inside surface. I plan to create some replacement labels out of blue painters tape and put those on the already stained outside face. Hopefully this will stick enough to stay in place until all the pieces are wired together. I would just reuse the pygmy labels and stick them on the other side, but I'm afraid they may not hold. With 54 pieces that will look the same on both sides, this is a jigsaw puzzle I wouldn't want to put together without clearly marked pieces. :eek:
     
  17. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    That's a good looking work space, pete. Love the color of the cherry stain!
     
  18. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    Ready to Butt

    I finished staining the other side of all the pieces yesterday morning, and have laid out the left side of the kayak for the butt joints.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see, this alone has taken over most of my workspace, so will be doing this in shifts - left inside, left outside, right inside then right inside. Also, as Rootman wrote in another thread, there isn't enough mylar in the kit to do more than this amount at one time. In fact, allowing for 1/2" overhang of the mylar on each side of the panels, I came out with about 1/2" to spare. I'm glad I cut these on the actual panels, or I may have come up short. I decided to tape down the pieces, just as an added precaution against accidental movement since there are two butt joints per panel.

    Here's a close-up of the seams prior to applying the epoxy:

    [​IMG]

    I'm headed down to the home store to pick up some bricks, and a length of 2x4 to cut up to evenly distribute the weight of the bricks. The manual says 2# is enough weight per joint, so figure one brick each should do it.
     
  19. DarrenM

    DarrenM Paddler

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    8) :!:

    Its hard to work inside on such a beautiful day..
     
  20. Peel

    Peel Paddler

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    That's so true! But at least I have a window to look out of, and SEE that it's beautiful outside.

    Hmm... Maybe that makes it worse :? I might be better off just not knowing what I'm missing :wink: