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Pygmy Borealis build

You might want to consider this,
the little piece right forward of cockpit at the peak of this RedFish kayak, that is a kind of hook which works togerther with deck bungee as a paddle park.
http://www.redfishkayak.com/king.htm
It is hard to see on this picture, but the hook is facing paddler, and you put the paddle shaft between the coaming and bungee, pull the bungee over the shaft toward yourself and hook the bungee to the "hook". To release, you just pull and up the shaft toward yourself.
I have a kayak ( NorthWestKayaks) which has 2 cleats works just like that and parking the paddle and taking it off is a snap.

From what I see it on your pic,I am just concerend that a little tip of your kayak in a wave would let your paddle go away.
 
That is what I am making sushiy, copying the Redfish one. That is roughed out Dan it doesn't have the "knock" in the aft of it to hold the bungee. The Bungee will come over the paddle when it is placed there. It is just for digging out the camera, or getting water or snacks. that and i wanted to try may hand at making something like that.
 
http://www.redfishkayak.com/paddlepark.htm
Redfish_Paddle_Park.jpg


Mine will not be as fancy as the redfish.
 
park

The beauty of the redfish design is that it is sunk into the hull and has a wide base. The hard part of the design, for me, would be glassing it in. Also note that the Redfish deck is rather flat.
The park you made might present safety issues. Any paddle park that uses a bungee will have a hook. The smaller the hook the better.
Roy
 
I think you all maybe right. It sits to high and would interfere with fishing and possibly catching fish. I will finish carving it out but not install it on the Borealis. Thought I would try something, but with this design it doesn't work. :(

Today I can put my third saturation coat on the deck and do the cowling tomorrow!

Yeah 5 1/2 day weekend!! :D
 
Rrdstarr said:
It sits to high and would interfere with fishing and possibly catching fish.
Click to expand...

It may also interfere with your getting back in your boat in a rescue situation. Another thing to catch your clothing or spray skirt on.
 
Fat Boat!
Well my perspective was with the nekkid eye. Now it doesn't look so fat through the lens?
Third coat on the deck. I also fiberglassed the bulkheads and will flip them over to do the other side tomorrow!

Yeah no work till Tuesday afternoon! :D
 
More pics

From the aft of course
25871_1331832187695_1587732476_774821_1092501_n.jpg

Bulkheads glassed on both sides.
25871_1331832227696_1587732476_774822_665063_n.jpg

Waterline view of paddle perch. The paddle will sit a 1/4" lower. Not sure If I will use it or not. Probably more of a liability.
25871_1331833267722_1587732476_774826_1944368_n.jpg
 
More done today!

Too crappy to work in the yard so I cut the hatches out.

25871_1332897374324_1587732476_777336_769269_n.jpg


Scotty rod holders.
25871_1332841492927_1587732476_777125_7823424_n.jpg


Outriggers, made them myself.
25871_1332841332923_1587732476_777121_6570968_n.jpg


Reinforcement for deck. I used the temporary frames to double the thickness of the deck and added three layers of fibreglass to strengthen the deck.
25871_1332841532928_1587732476_777126_4109829_n.jpg
 
Tomorrow I attempt to fillet the inner shear seam. Should be a chore and a half! Today I also dry fit the bulkheads, stern one I had to modify because of the deck reinforcements. Bow bulkhead just took a little sanding of the corners to fit properly.
 
Rick,

That outrigger attachment system looks very unusual to me. It is much more common to run the cross member all the way across as a continuous piece, so that there are no points of high stress. It looks to me that the ell area will be a possible point of failure because of the bending loads concentrated there.

However, this is not an area of kayak construction familiar to me. Others more familiar with outrigger construction and loading will have a better informed opinion.

I don't recall what materials you chose for the horizontals and the right angle pipe there. Have you mentioned it here before?
 
engineering check

I would suggest a simple engineering check before launch.
First determine how many pounds of buoyancy the floats have. ( 1 gallon of water weighs 8.5 pounds , salt water is heavier)
Turn your kayak over and slowly add that weight to the floats. Then add another 10 pounds for hydraulic forces. Be careful to not make this a destructive test.
If you want a conservative destructive test:
reset your rig into a simulated deck and test to destruction.
My guess: your out riggers will fail at the joint before the deck fails. A wake from a passing boat might cause a highest stress on the out riggers. I see about 60 ft.-lbs. (10 pounds from 1 float + 10 pounds form hydraulic force times 3 feet)

You might also find that a light wind will quickly spin the boat so that your back is to the wind. This is becasue your center of air pressure will be in front of center of hull hydraulic pressure. Like sailing down wind. Note that in the Advertisement, the pontoons are in front of the fisherman. This will tend to turn the front of the boat into the wind. Your set up will tend to turn the front of the boat down wind.

Roy
 
Yeah, I'd do some testing before committing this to the water. However, it is a novel concept and worth investigating. T6061 is a decent material for the job, depending on the wall thickness.

I agree with Roy that if it fails, likely it will fail at/near the joint, but the boat and deck will handle it. Can't tell from your photo, but are you using the Scotty rod holder system to attach each cross bar to the deck? I have one of those on the power boat. They are pretty tough, being made of filled polycarbonate, I believe.

The cross bar positioning behind the seat will put your boat "in irons," so that you will likely have to dismantle the system to get back upwind in a strong breeze. But, I bet you won't be using this on a windy day, anyhow.

I'll be interested in how this turns out.
 
I popped in to see Rick's build today and I think he's going to be on the water in April as predicted! Man, is that thing ever huge when compared to the Coho though...definitely a freighter (but Rick is a big guy so the size is appropriate) :D . Rick showed me roughly where the waterline is with him, him and 1/2 load, and him and full load and it does sit pretty high in the water (seems to be a Pygmy trait?). That cockpit is really big also; I have a hard time imagining anybody having trouble getting in and out of it easily! I think I could probably even fit my lab-cross in there if I tried (probably bang him on the head with the paddle though).

Thanks, Rick, for taking the time out to show me the details; we'll have to get together for sure in July when I believe I'll have two boats "on the roof".

Ed
 
Thanks Roy and Dave for your concerns about mine and the boats safety! I would not use them out in the Ocean. It is my intent to use them on smaller lakes for stability while fly fishing, either standing or kneeling. Would NOT be used on a windy day! The boat "bumpers" I used are 5.5" X 20". I think my calculations came up with 17lbs each, the same as my PFD(kokata OutFIR Tour in XXL). Yes, Dave, I am using Scotty rod holders as the base, flush mount. They are threaded through two layers of 4mm ply and four layers of fibreglass, one on top and three below. The tubes are 28" long, the same as used in the Scotty outrigger kit. I could always shorten them to lessen the load on the deck.

That is interesting Roy how placing them behind me will turn my back to the wind. I am a total novice to the water as my posts show! :oops:

Thanks Ed for stopping in and checking my progress and giving some good advice about many things! :D We will have a paddle when you are back out here!
 
Closer!

Shear seams inside are gooped.
Bulkheads are in and glassed. Bad photo!
Aft hatch spacer and lip are in.
Seat Supports are in, need sanding to be prettier. need to drill holes and install seat back and bottom. Think I will be buying some Mini cell foam! Anyone know where I can get some in the Victoria area?
Half Dowels are done. Used Dan's little trick of sanding a 3/4" radius to ease removal of hatch when it is vacuum locked!
Just need to do the front hatch lip and spacer and I can go paddle!!!

Edited to say that I can't import my photos from Facebook? The photos must be smaller than 600 pixels wide. Damned if i can figure out how to resize them in Facebook???
 
Re: Closer!

Astoriadave said:
Rrdstarr said:
Edited to say that I can't import my photos from Facebook? The photos must be smaller than 600 pixels wide. Damned if i can figure out how to resize them in Facebook???
Click to expand...
Sounds like a lot of progress. I think you need to photo edit on your computer. Try Irfanview. Free, easy to use: http://www.irfanview.com/
Click to expand...

Irfanview is the best, been using it for many years.

Rick, what did you mean by the 3/4" radius to ease hatch opening when they are vacuum sealed?
 
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