Pygmy build/epoxy question

Discussion in 'Boat and Accessory Building' started by ahbeguyeel, Oct 18, 2010.

  1. Tootsall

    Tootsall Paddler

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  2. Stumpy

    Stumpy Paddler

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    In 35 years of custom furniture making, I've never owned one of those burnishing tools... just used a phillips screwdriver... maybe I'll get one one day... do they come with a screw driver tip? :lol:
     
  3. ahbeguyeel

    ahbeguyeel Paddler

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    So, I've got all the seams filled and re-filled and am happy with them. I've spent the morning scraping and sanding the excess drips and smears as I was pretty sloppy with the thickened epoxy. Could I get everyone's 2 cents on whether to take those stains out completely before doing the fill coat? Only having a palm sander, I am tempted to just get everything fair and smooth and assume the epoxy will make everything pretty, but I have looked through tons of posts about this step and some people have said don't worry about them and some people have gotten everything back down to bare wood before saturating.
    Oh, and I finally ordered a cabinet scraper on line after searching every local place I could find to no avail. All of you Seattle-ites should take a moment to appreciate Hardwick's. Oh, how I miss Hardwick's.
     
  4. Tootsall

    Tootsall Paddler

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    Don't worry about the over-glue stains: they will magically disappear when you put that first saturation coat on. For now only concern yourself with the finish being smooth, the glue seams along the chines well-blended with the wood. Before going ahead with saturation though: make double and triple certain that everything is lined up, square, horizontal, inline & etc.

    Example: compare this picture taken just prior to saturation coat:
    [​IMG]

    with this one:
    [​IMG]

    See how the "stains" are gone? I can promise you that they were not sanded out!
     
  5. ahbeguyeel

    ahbeguyeel Paddler

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    Thank you, Tootsall. That makes me feel better. I kept looking at Mark's and Dan's builds, but they are so tidy, it was hard to tell if the stains would show. My hull looks about like yours did so I will forge ahead and put the saturation coat on. I am glad to be done with this phase of filling, sanding, filling, sanding and now I know to be a little more careful when I glue up the deck seams.

    Thanks again.
    -Abigail
     
  6. DarenN

    DarenN Paddler

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    on the couple S&G's that i've built i've run a strip of masking tape on either side of the seam before i started filling the seam. i think Dan has done this as well. fill the seam and pull the tape off when the filler starts to set, but don't wait too long. (are you ever going to show us some pics? :wink: )

    Daren.......
     
  7. ahbeguyeel

    ahbeguyeel Paddler

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    Me again. I've now got the inside deck seams glassed and hardened and planned to put the cockpit reinforcement pieces on today and a coat of epoxy on the whole underside. That won't take me long, so I'm wondering if this has to go back on the hull to cure again or if I can leave it off so that I can begin work on the inside of the hull, removing temporary frames and filletting the stems. It seems like it wouldn't warp since it cured on the hull already, but I'd hate to be wrong. Any thoughts?
    Can't seem to get pictures to load unfortunately.
    -Abigail
     
  8. Rrdstarr

    Rrdstarr Paddler

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    follow your pygmy instructions implicitly!
     
  9. eriktheviking

    eriktheviking Paddler

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    I have not built any Pygmy boats so I don't know what those instructions suggest. For the two Waters Dancing kayaks I have built, I did not re-attach the deck to the hull to cure at this point. I have not noticed any problems from the deck changing shape appreciably. Similarly, I did not re-attach the deck when the exterior or interior of the hull was glassed. Again I did not notice that this created any problems when it came time later to finally attach the deck to the hull.
     
  10. eriktheviking

    eriktheviking Paddler

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    Just a quick follow-up- have you been looking at the Pygmy Boats youtube channel (mentioned in some other threads here)? There is a series of boat building videos showing the main build steps. Look at http://www.youtube.com/user/pygmyboats#g/c/532F00547A3F55F7. Video 26 seems to show the deck taped onto the hull after interior taping and saturation coating- not sure how important it is to re-attach the deck in this step.
     
  11. Whidbey

    Whidbey Paddler

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    The deck is kinda flimsy at this point and will easily deform. If you allow the deck to cure upside down at this step, it could make it more difficult to align the deck to hull seems further in the build process.
    Follow the provided Pygmy instructions to the letter.

    James
     
  12. Tootsall

    Tootsall Paddler

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    Ditto what Rick and James said. "To the letter" (especially with regards to gluing and curing). The time to tape the deck back on now will provide dividends later. I'm guessing the deck is already cured though...........?
     
  13. ahbeguyeel

    ahbeguyeel Paddler

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    Me again. Thanks for everyone's input. The manual only says to put the deck back on the hull to cure after the deck seams have been glassed, (which I did). It does not say to put it back on after the saturation coat. I called Pygmy to be sure and they said it should be fine to allow it to cure off the hull at this point since the tape should provide enough structure to keep the deck from warping. I hung it under my work bench to cure, supported in three places. I just did a dry fit and it looks great, so no worries. I was able to get a lot done on the hull this way so it is almost ready to glass.
    Now I'm debating whether to fillet the middle portions of the hull chine seams to give the fiberglass a gentler curve to lay on. It does not say to do so in the manual, but Mark did that with his and it seems to make sense given the angle there. Has anyone who did not put fillets here had any issues with air under the glass at the chines? Is there any reason I would not want to have small fillets here?
    Thanks again.
    -Abigail
     
  14. Dan_Millsip

    Dan_Millsip Paddler & Admin

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    Yes, do the filets -- it makes laying the glass a lot easier.

    *****
     
  15. Astoriadave

    Astoriadave Paddler

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    ahbe,

    Filleting those seams is a good idea, all right. Even with fillets (make sure they are very smooth), squeegeeing the glass demands some care, because if you squeegee from the keel outward (toward the sheer). as seems logical, you will pull the glass away from the seams. Better to squeegee toward the keel seam, and "lift" the excess resin as you go, wiping it off into a discard container. This will force the glass down into those seams. Play with this a bit on the first batch of resin or two (small ones are better), and you will see what I mean.

    Getting a good, tight bond between the glass and those seams is important for optimum hull strength.
     
  16. Rrdstarr

    Rrdstarr Paddler

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    What Dan says!