Discussion in 'Boat and Accessory Building' started by Dan_Millsip, Feb 7, 2006.
Wow - have you ever worked for the Government, by chance? :lol:
Unfortunately, life got in the way and used up half of my boat building time today.
This is definitely not a small job. I spent 7 hours yesterday with sandpaper in hand and machine -- but the deck is nearly finished! All total, it's taken about 20 hours to sand the LPU completely off the deck.
The bow dent -- I'll be leaving this blemish as is -- a reminder that things happen:
Cockpit sanded clean:
The water test -- I wet the entire deck surface to get an idea of how the boat will look once the epoxy and LPU are applied:
I'm not certain to what extent I'll be sanding the hull -- I'll give System 3 a call on Monday morning to find out if it's necessary to sand down to bare epoxy -- if not, I may just do a good surface sanding and then continue with epoxy.
Very impressive Dan! It’s clear that all of that hard work will ultimately pay off in the end and your photos are a testament as to how durable LPU really is. 8O Even though a varnish finish may be more cosmetically appealing, the time one saves by not having to sand between coats and the fact that LPU is more durable makes it my personal choice. Varnish advocates flame away.
Well, I worked another 6 hours on the boat yesterday. I cleaned up a few spots on the deck that needed more attention, removed the residue left by the hatch foam, began sanding the hatch lids, and removed a bit more of the unwanted epoxy from the interior of the kayak.
My new friend -- the wood scraper. This tool worked great for cleaning up the hatch lips as well as LPU on the deck and hull -- you can see the lip on the left still has the glue residue left over from the removal of the neoprene seal. The right side of the lip has been scraped clean. It was necessary to have a metal file on hand to resharpen the wood scraper as it dulls fairly quickly:
Front hatch lip scraped and sanded:
Rear hatch lip scraped and sanded:
Hatch lid in the process of being sanded. The Mouse worked well for this application (followed up with hand-sanding). Once the sanding of the lids is completed, I'll bevel the ends of the half-dowels:
I only had three hours to work on the boat today. I managed to get the front hatch lid ready for epoxy and the rear hatch almost ready.
I built a simple guide for cutting the half dowels at a 45 degree angle with the fine tooth Dozuki (Japanese pull saw).
Front hatch lid completely sanded and dowels bevelled at 45 degrees. Note that I still have a few chips at the front of the hatch opening to repair.:
Close-up of front hatch dowels:
Ingenious jig Dan and beautiful workmanship. I do not know whether I would have the patience for all that sanding and scraping but I am sure that the effort will speak for itself.
Yeah, it was another fiddly day doing those hatch lids -- it's pretty slow going getting all the areas around the half dowels -- but it's done.
I contacted System 3 this morning regarding the hull and they told me that I'd be OK with just giving the LPU on the hull a thorough sanding before applying the epoxy. I was told that I should rough up the surface with 60-80 grit sandpaper -- that seems a bit coarse to me and since I've already got the hull sanded to 120 grit, I'll leave it at that. If I find that down the road (or up the creek, as the case may be) the epoxy doesn't adhere with a good bond, I'll just redo the hull like I've done the deck -- by sanding off all the LPU.
I should note that the folks at System 3 told me when I first did the double to sand the epoxy to no more than 220 before applying the LPU. I sanded to 400 with wet and dry and haven't had any problems.
I spent another 3 hours doing some final sanding on the hull to eliminate all the shiny spots and put the first coat of epoxy on the hull yesterday. I've decided not to completely remove the LPU on the hull -- I sanded to 120 grit and will apply the epoxy directly over the existing LPU.
There are quite a few spots on the hull where the fibreglass weave is showing white from compression damage (from hitting rocks and whatnot). To get rid of these marks would require removing the affected area by sanding and scraping right through to the bare wood, placing a cloth patch over the area, and re-applying the epoxy. None of the damage appears worse than cosmetic so I'm not going to worry about it at this time. On the plus side, I'll now have a boat that's got shiny scratches.
I'm fairly confident that there won't be any problems from applying epoxy directly on the LPU but it will be interesting to see how the refinished hull endures compared to the completely sanded deck over time.
Today, I applied a second coat of epoxy -- in all (two coats), I used 14 oz of epoxy:
Once sanded and LPU applied, I expect the hull will look nearly as good as new:
Compression damaged areas are still visible -- but they're completely sealed and sound. I can live with them:
The hull will sit and cure for a couple of days before I flip it over and epoxy the deck.
I have worse-looking stuff on my hull and it hasn't even been in the water yet. Nice refinishing job.
It's a pleasure seeing the nice workshops people have to work in. (I'm relegated to the back yard.) I thought kayak building would be a solitary exercise, and it has been a joy to be working alongside you guys from across the continent.
Actually, I'd love to be able to build my boat in my back yard -- but it's too cold and at this time of year, rain is imminent. As it is, I'm lucky enough to have a friend loan my the use of his shop while I refinish my double and build my Coho (the shop will be cleaned up before starting the Coho).
Regarding those compression damaged areas, there's a lot more than what I've shown in the photo -- but nothing is so bad that it absolutely needs attention.
It's been fun watching yourself and others progress on your builds as well. Thanks for sharing your building adventures with us.
I've now worked on the boat three times since my last update. I completed the second coat of epoxy on the hull. The second coat covered very well but left a few low spots over some of the deeper gouges -- I added a bit of epoxy to the low spots and will sand flush later. Once completed, the damaged areas will still be visible, but the hull will be smooth and free of indents and low spots.
After the hull was completely epoxied, I flipped the kayak over and began sanding the deck to 220 grit. Getting a bit fussy, I spent about three and a half hours on the deck, doing additional sanding to the coaming areas. The rudder park was actually in pretty good shape so I simply used a file to remove any knicks and generally clean it up a bit.
Last night I applied the first coat of epoxy on the deck.
A few low spots on the deeper gouges -- some spot applications of epoxy has now filled these locations:
Applying epoxy to the deck. I first applied epoxy with a brush around the coamings and hatch lips before rolling epoxy on the rest of the deck:
The first coat of epoxy on the deck completed:
Rudder park, before and after:
I'm very pleased with the way the coamings have cleaned up:
It looks beautiful Dan!
Looking all nice and shiny! People are going to think it's brand new again!
Looking good Dan!!!
I can't wait to get out again! But this Saturday I'll be skiing!
This may be next winters project for me. Unless its building another new boat. Have to have something to take up my time in the winter evenings or else my wife will be expecting help cleaning horse stalls. Sorry, Honey, gotta go put on another coat of epoxy. :lol:
Just say nay (neigh!).
:lol: :lol: :lol:
I applied a second coat of epoxy to the deck last night. Today, I put the kayak in the rafters where it will remain until the epoxy is fully cured. Once cured, I'll take the double down and sand it before applying the LPU.
Tomorrow, I'll give the shop a good clean-up and then start building my Coho on Sunday.
I know it's not yours... but I'm itching to see some close-ups of that stripper boat at the bottom of the photo! 8)
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