Reinforcing foam footrest

[Tongo-Rad]

Does anyone know if foam footrest padding can stacked safely against a rotomolded kayak's bulkheads (Valley Gemini SP RM)? I wouldn't want to dislodge the bulkhead as it seems the adhesives to seal them are far weaker than their fibreglass counterparts.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

I don't know from direct experience, but I wouldn't risk it. I've had no problem 'manually' removing foam bulkheads, but that was always in bulkheads that had become partly detached and were leaking.

I'd attach a footboard using the bolts for the footpegs instead. Something like:

 

[Tongo-Rad]

Thanks for your input, John. Better to err on the side of caution when dealing with polyethylene in this case. I noted the posting you made on the Bigfoot system, and after looking at their website, it's tempting to try the Skegfoot board especially since it can be removed and used in other kayaks if/when I move along to another one.

 

[JohnAbercrombie]

Thanks for your input, John. Better to err on the side of caution when dealing with polyethylene in this case. I noted the posting you made on the Bigfoot system, and after looking at their website, it's tempting to try the Skegfoot board especially since it can be removed and used in other kayaks if/when I move along to another one.

Yes, I think the Skegfoot would be a good solution. It's a bit heavy, but with a plastic boat...who cares? If you want to have a closer look at the BigFoot before you order the Skegfoot, send me a p.m. here ('Start Conversation') and we can set up a time for you to visit.

 

[Tongo-Rad]

Thanks for the offer to check out the setup you have. I might take you up on that.

In asking Mark Sundin from Expedition Kayaks about their Skegfoot, it apparently weighs 600 grams which he mentioned is a little bit heavier than the Yakima rails and pedals. Sounds tempting.

 

[Peter-CKM]

Rotomolded kayak bulkheads are generally just glued in - I would not want to use them for anything requiring strength, so defintiely not use as foot braces.

Issue #5 of California Kayaker Magazine (can be read online in PDF format at http://calkayakermag.com/magazine.html) had an article on how to make foot beds using bands that you would attach to where the standard foot peg system was attached to the boat.

 

[Kayak Jim]

I've been toying with the idea of installing a footplate that spans from one peg to the other, attaching to both. No need for the side bands. The pegs in the boat being considered are the Se-Lect and have perforations already. I just need to figure out the correct angle for the plate (and size of course).

 

[kayakwriter]

I've been toying with the idea of installing a footplate that spans from one peg to the other, attaching to both. No need for the side bands. The pegs in the boat being considered are the Se-Lect and have perforations already. I just need to figure out the correct angle for the plate (and size of course).

I have footpegs rather than a footplate in my Valley Etain. I've always disliked the factory rails and pegs - the pegs have a narrow aluminum rest that's locked into a completely vertical position. So a small surface area to bear down on, and the exact opposite of ergonomic. Plus, the stupid spring-loaded levers behind the pegs are prone to jamming into immobility when to you want adjust the pegs, and then perversely releasing at random (but invariably awkward) moments at sea so that you find yourself sliding down into the cockpit during braces and rolls.

So in my Etain, I upgraded the rails and pegs to the SeaLect model. I even upgraded to the rudder control pegs despite having no rudder in the Etain, just so the pegs could swing a bit for a most ergonomic angle to my feet. (I did have to hacksaw the pegs a bit to get them to fit under the Etain's lower decks.)

But I were going the footplate route, I think I'd reinstall the original aluminum rails and pegs for strength, find a way to lock the pegs into the rails at the right setting, and make a sort of "underplate" of marine plywood that was bolted to the footpegs. I'd cushion the front surface where my feet contacted with minicell foam of a suitable depth and shape.

 

[Tongo-Rad]

I have footpegs rather than a footplate in my Valley Etain. I've always disliked the factory rails and pegs - the pegs have a narrow aluminum rest that's locked into a completely vertical position. So a small surface area to bear down on, and the exact opposite of ergonomic. Plus, the stupid spring-loaded levers behind the pegs are prone to jamming into immobility when to you want adjust the pegs, and then perversely releasing at random (but invariably awkward) moments at sea so that you find yourself sliding down into the cockpit during braces and rolls.
...

I feel your pain @kayakwriter! All of my kayaks unfortunately have Yakima pedals and all of them have slipped at some inopportune moment for me, regardless of how I've done my best to clear them of debris or build-up. I had to resort to using a zap-strap to hold the levers in a set position, which is a simple and effective solution but still, those square pegs are painfully non-ergonomic.

My partner has the SeaLect pedals in her CD Rumour and besides feeling far more comfortable, I appreciate the flag-like toggle that's closer to the seat to allow for easy adjusting.

I'm curious, did the hull mounting holes for the SeaLect rails line up with presumably the Yakimas you had previously in your kayak?

 

[kayakwriter]

I'm curious, did the hull mounting holes for the SeaLect rails line up with presumably the Yakimas you had previously in your kayak?

Yes, they did line up. The hole spacing seems to be an industry standard, thank goodness. Same thing when I upgraded the factory pegs/rudder in my Tyee to the Smart Track system.