Rice paper graphics

Blackhawk

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I'm building an Arctic Tern and will be applying some graphics. I see where people are applying them with the saturation coat. If you skip the saturation coat how would you do this? Just "saturate" the graphics?
Thanks.
 

JohnAbercrombie

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That would be my approach if I didn't want to use a 'seal coat' or 'saturation coat' before glassing - which I don't generally do.

From Bjorn Thomasson's website:
Print the images on thin Japanese paper (in order for it to be possible to run in a regular desk printer, you have to paste it on a printer paper - a thin string of adhesive around the edge). With a laser printer, the paper will then usually be used as is. With an inkjet printer, printing needs to be protected with a little fixative. Place the cut sticker directly on the wood and gently dab epoxy on a brush - carefully so that there is no crease in the thin paper. When the epoxy has hardened, you apply fiberglass as usual.
 

OrcaBoats

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I have done it after saturation and under hardened fill coats otherwise glass is bonded to the paper and not to the wood. I think if you do it Bjorn's way, you might see the halo of the epoxy patch when you do the full glassing job.
 

JohnAbercrombie

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I have done it after saturation and under hardened fill coats otherwise glass is bonded to the paper and not to the wood. I think if you do it Bjorn's way, you might see the halo of the epoxy patch when you do the full glassing job.
That makes sense to me.
I've only done 'paper labels' inside, on bulkheads for 'Owner Info' labels where the appearance didn't matter. All of those were on top of the existing glass, protected under epoxy and a piece of light glass.
For 'on deck' logos I use commercial vinyl logos on top of the finish.
 

Blackhawk

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I have done it after saturation and under hardened fill coats otherwise glass is bonded to the paper and not to the wood. I think if you do it Bjorn's way, you might see the halo of the epoxy patch when you do the full glassing job.
Here is a dry run I did on some thin scrap plywood. It hasn't dried.
I saturated the rice paper drawings first, then quickly fiberglassed before it dried. In that scenario, wouldn't there be enough resin so the glass isn't bonding to the paper? Is it something that would manifest later, or will I be able to see if it works as soon as it dries?
BTW, the dot by the mouth of the bird is a knot in the wood not an ink blemish.
 

Attachments

Blackhawk

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Oh, and how I printed it. I did use an inkjet printer, a Brother mfc-j985dw.
I got 8.5x11 translucent, water-soluble paper from Smartsolve.
I used a glue stick to glue it to a regular piece of paper.
I ran it through the printer upside down printing nothing..
Then flipped it over and ran it through normally.
It seemed to work.
No streaking of the ink.
 
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