Here are some things I learned along the way to building a Coho: 1. This boat has a lot more butt joints than the smaller Pygmies. They give you just enough clear mylar that you have to reuse pieces of it on several joints, which I didn't like (but it may be OK with everybody else), because it got rough from dried epoxy and bent from peeling it off. I looked in craft stores for clear mylar to no avail, but found clear plastic presentation covers (from GBC) in an office supply store, cut them to size, and the material worked better than the mylar (didn't stick as much). 2. When you attach the extensions to the three center temporary frames, make it a strong connection. The wobbling of my loosely attached extensions made my frames keep coming loose from the inside hull. The hot glue won't hold under lateral stress. 3. The problem above made me have to build outside "reverse" frames to hold the hull shape right. To do this, don't trace the frames, just mark the position of the corners and connect the dots with a straight edge to get the proper polygon. Add 5 mm to compensate for thickness of glassed hull. If you use one-inch plywood instead of quarter, the outside frames make a great support to keep the kayak in for completing the kit and for subsequent outside storage. In order to get the three frames to line up straight and hold the boat level, you need to know how much plywood extends beyond the sheer above/below each frame. I will post these empirical measurements later, if anyone is interested. 4. It's nice that they give you a few rubber gloves, but I ended up needing about 4 dozen. 5. I have visible drips from thickened epoxy dripping from the hull panel seams. It's not enough to wipe off the excess, as the epoxy with wood flour darkens the raw panels, pretty deeply below the surface. So wipe in a broad, undrippy shape, or sand the wood all the way down to the original color. Once you put a saturation coat over the drips, you're lost. On the deck, I might add some wood flour to my saturation coat if I can't sand away the drips. The hull I should paint, I guess. 6. When you have leftover clear epoxy between early steps, coat your coamings with it. 7. I saw online where someone saved money on C-clamps for coamings by cutting 4-in Schedule 40 PVC pipe into 1.5-in sections, with a slit to make a springy clamp. This will save about $40 or more in clamps, if you were going to get 20.