SOF Seabee13 Build

Discussion in 'Boat and Accessory Building' started by Iwannapaddle, Sep 26, 2009.

  1. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Would anyone know where I could buy a couple of SOF Kits here on the West Coast?
     
  2. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Oops - I hit the Submit key too quick there :oops:

    As both my girlfriend and I have been experiencing back problems and find that old wood-frame style open double a real PITA to load and unload, I want to build two light single SOF's

    Yes, the old Klepper-style woodframe that I covered in ballistic nylon a few years ago is still going strong, a few scuffs along the bottom from being not-so-gentle when beaching it, but other than that the nylon has
    held out really well.

    It's a real dog to load and carry though - at 90 lbs - for a 17 footer with 30 inch beam.

    We've had lots of fun with it.

    Now I want to build two lightweight single SOF's.

    Are kits available here?
     
  3. DarenN

    DarenN Paddler

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    Robert Morris in Vancouver used to offer kits. you could try and get ahold of him and see if he still does.

    Daren........
     
  4. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Thanks Daren,

    I still have some chunks of that foam that you gave me a few years ago :)

    I did check-out Robert Morris' Site - looks like he may still have classes available.


    I HAVE ALSO being checking out Yostwerks........

    http://yostwerks.com/

    I just may download all those plans and instructions from Yostwerks and climb in myself.

    Not too sure about the clear vinyl skin though - I may just go with ballistic nylon again :)
     
  5. Stumpy

    Stumpy Paddler

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    I think those clear vinyl skins are mostly for vanity, to show off the frames, which are really beautiful, and get lost unless you stick your head in the cockpit. Nylon sews on just fine, and if you add rub strips to ths bow, stern, and 4' down the center, you'll get very little scuffing. I use 1/4" X 3/4" cedar or ash, and either steam bend or laminate the bow and stern strips
     
  6. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    I'm with you there Sir Stumpy :)

    Now I just have to try and figure out all those slightly disjointed plans on Yostwerks :?: :? :?:

    Mainly just getting to figure out the cross-sections/ribs ???
     
  7. Stumpy

    Stumpy Paddler

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    Yeah I agree. Tom Yost was an engineer by trade, hence the decimal feet in his offsets, I find it much easier to transpose the numbers to centimeters, and go from there. I've built 5 of his designs, love the sea tour 17 exp, and the sea tour 15, though not crazy about the sea tour 15exp, as the cocpit is a bit too far back. the sea rover is for the skinny, adventurous type who is not afraid of getting wet, and the sea bee 13 is a terrific rec boat for smaller paddlers, especially when stretched to 13'-6".
    I don't mess with epoxy except for the coaming, prefering to peg and lash the frames for a more flexible boat, and wb lpu is plenty water resistant for the frames.
     
  8. OrcaBoats

    OrcaBoats Paddler

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    If you are not able to contact Robert Morris, I may be able to help with materials, lumber, kit etc. in the greater Vancouver area.
     
  9. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Wow - thanks Rod - that is really appreciated.

    I am leaning towards making a Yostwerk one, but I am going to see if I can get a hold of Robert Morris.

    I had a good look at the Yostwerks plans and they're not as difficult as they seem :wink:


    Ahhh, I have just returned from a (work unfortunately) trip up to the north end of Harrison Lake - in by road from the Lillooet Lake side - and all I could think of was....ohhhhh just sooo much lovely kayaking water up here :lol:
     
  10. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Hmmmmm, I have been thinking this afternoon.....

    I'm on the point of getting myself ready to buld a couple of Tom Yosts Sea Bee 13's with a few minor modifications - for my girlfriend and myself....


    Just to do something different.......

    Has anyone ever built a SOF with a deck-hatch on the rear deck?

    Just for ease of packing goodies.............
     
  11. DarenN

    DarenN Paddler

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    it's been done.
    i forget who it was, but someone put Beckson hatches in a Baidarka. Scandanavia i think. he also sewed bulkheads to the inside of the skin.
     
  12. Stumpy

    Stumpy Paddler

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    The yostwerks site has directions for putting dry bag hatches in the vinyl skins, as well as for making floatation bags. Personally, I wouldn't bother with hatches, use the floatation for day use, then deflate them to make room for floatation drybags for camping... leaves a clean deck, and I use a small deck bag in front for lunch and essentials.
    I can't see any possible way of making a truly watertight bulkhead in a sof, and prefer the open access, so I wouldn't try,
    The sea bee can be stretch a foot or so without problems, though I've never tried making one shorter, I'm sure it could happen.
     
  13. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Thanks once again Daren and Stumpy,

    Nah - I definitely don't plan on trying to make an airtight bulkhead for sure - I just wanted an easy way to access the "packing space" behind the coaming - although that's for muchy muchy later down the road :)

    Ahh I have drawn out the profiles and sections etc (did it in AutoCad) and it's looking good.

    One small concern I have with this though - with cross-section 3 - it's really shallow - from my perspective drawings (may be wrong though ??) there's only a height of 7 1/2 inches to get ones feet through when sitting?

    Do you think this is enough?

    I have been thinking of raising the foredeck about an additional 1 1/2 inches to provide more clearance?
     
  14. Stumpy

    Stumpy Paddler

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    The beauty of Tom's designs is that they are so easy to customize to individual paddlers. I just went down to the shop to measure the sction #3 that I have cut , and the total height is 12 1/2", for a "foot space" of nearly 10", so I must have bumped it up a bit, though I think it was onlt 1". I did, however, change the deck to a 4-chine, rounded deck, as on the sea rover, to give it some more knee room, and dropped the first chine on #2,3,and 4 about 3/16 to 1/4", to give it even more primary stability, stretched it out to 13'-6", and raised the rear deck with a 3-stage "R" deck, for a bit more stowage.
    Don't be afraid to email Mr. Yost with any questions you might have. He's usually very quick to respond, and most helpful, but he does want you to send him pictures, and may include them in the gallery.
     
  15. kelly t

    kelly t Paddler

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    Iwannapaddle

    you wrote
    One small concern I have with this though - with cross-section 3 - it's really shallow - from my perspective drawings (may be wrong though ??) there's only a height of 7 1/2 inches to get ones feet through when sitting?

    Do you think this is enough?


    Are you concerned about the opening in the centre of the plywood frame through which your feet have to go? If so, you should be ok. The opening of my plywood frame that is at the front of my coaming (the one that my feet go through, and which acts as the 'masik' ) has a depth of just under 7 inches in the centre of the deck. I wear a size 10 and there is lots of room for my feet to go through, as the feet go in with the toes pointed. I, too, was a bit concerned when starting the build, so I made a copy of that frame using cardboard, to check that there was enough room.
     
  16. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Peg and lash and no glue whatsoever? :shock:
     
  17. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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  18. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    MEH.... Lost my post when I uploaded those pics :?


    Thanks again stumpy and kelly.......

    kelly - you've put my mind at rest - besides we both have smaller feet than you :lol:

    stumpy - you've given me some more ideas there, yes I am going to change the foredeck into a rounded deck too as you have done.

    Here's some photos of my drafted cross-sections - fortunately I have the opportunity to draw these all up in Cad and print them full-size :)

    I have raised the front 3 upper sections by 1 inch giving me at:
    Section 3 - outside dimensions - height 12 1/2 inches - total width 23 inches

    "Foot space" is approx 10 inches and about 8 1/2 inches to get them little feet through that cross section :)


    I have raised the rear sections as shown by an inch as well, providing a higher rear deck for a little more storage.

    Yes, I have emailed Mr. Yost and sent him a PDF file of the whole CAD layout.

    If anyone is interested in a PDF copy of this layout I have done let me know and I'll send it to you.
     
  19. Iwannapaddle

    Iwannapaddle Paddler

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    Strongback and stations all built and ready to go...........

    I have marked out on both stations the baseline and HAB for Sections 1 and 5

    I spanned a length of nylon twine between the two stations too - as a reference point for the Baseline.

    Time to get busy - some plywood needed and get that jigsaw and bandsaw powered up :)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Stumpy

    Stumpy Paddler

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    To correct my statement on peg and lash, I do usually put a drop of titebondII in the hole before tapping the dowels in, but, if they are tight, it's not necessary (different chopstick comanies vary in diameter) :lol: On the other hand, the water content of the titebond may swell the bamboo to make a tighter fit.