Water-based varnish?

MarkVK

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A friend of mine with a sailboat highly recommended this water-based varnish:

https://www.totalboat.com/products/halcyon-water-based-varnish

It seems like Interlux Toplac Plus is the most consistently recommended varnish for wood kayaks.

For cleanup and general pleasantness, water-based sounds good, but if the Interlux is noticeably better I'm willing to put up with its drawbacks.

Would really appreciate input....
 
A friend of mine with a sailboat highly recommended this water-based varnish:

https://www.totalboat.com/products/halcyon-water-based-varnish

It seems like Interlux Toplac Plus is the most consistently recommended varnish for wood kayaks.

For cleanup and general pleasantness, water-based sounds good, but if the Interlux is noticeably better I'm willing to put up with its drawbacks.

Would really appreciate input....

I know that Interlux markets a slightly different product line-up in the US, likely because of different regulations here in Canada. But it doesn't make sense to me to use the same name for a completely different product... Unless I really miss something, Toplac Plus, replacing the Brightside line, is a topside paint, not a varnish, in other words it doesn't come in clear. It's also not water based, for best result their 2333N (brush/roller) or 216 (spray) thinners/reducers should be used.

Sikkens Cetol Marine products are varnishes under the Interlux brand umbrella in Canada, as are a few different spar varnishes like Goldspar and Schooner Gold. But none of those are water based.

No experience with the Halcyon product here, sorry
I know people who have successfully used System Three Spar Varnish for their Pygmy stitch and glue kayaks. Not water based either.
I used System Three WR-LPU for my cedar strip boat, water based but technically not a varnish, and slightly more finicky to get a nice, consistent result.
 
For more options to consider, a user over at the Canadian Canoe Forums site did a 4.5 year outdoor exposure test of ash gunwales treated with various varnishes from Minwax, Epifanes, Sikkens, and Coronado, as well as some oils and epoxy. Full write up here.

Spoiler alert, the readily available Minwax Helmsman Spar varnish came out on top. Also worth noting, the test was done in the US so maybe the different regulations redkite mentions results in different products up here in Canada. Who knows...

Let us know what you eventually decide on.
 
Given the good reviews on the Halcyon site and from my knowledgeable friend, the fact that you can apply multiple coats quickly without sanding, and the limited UV exposure of my garage-stored kayaks, I ordered the Halcyon water-based product and will be giving it a try. I'll report about my experience applying it.
 
I've finished varnishing the hull and deck of the kayak I'm building and I used the Halcyon water-based clear gloss varnish. It comes in 1-quart collapsible containers with a screw-on lid, which makes it easier to store than a standard paint can -- you can squeeze it until the liquid is at the spout so there's very little air in the container and little chance for the varnish to form a skin.

I haven't varnished a kayak before, so I don't have a good basis for assessing how it goes on compared to other varnish. I found it easiest to use a foam brush. The instructions say to put on thick coats and they weren't kidding because if the coat is too thin the brush marks won't lay down. It took a while to figure out the amount of varnish to lay down so there weren't brush marks but also no sags or drips. Inclined areas like the sides of the hull were the most difficult in this respect.

I used the method demonstrated by Nick Schade on his videos where he moves down the kayak in short sections, brushing on the varnish, spreading it out, and tipping it back into the wet edge of the previous section. The Halcyon varnish sets up fast enough that this kind of technique minimizing the exposure time of the wet edge was really necessary.

The promotional material for the Halcyon varnish says you can put on five coats in a day, but that's only technically true. The instructions say to put on three coats, then sand before putting on the final coats. The varnish has to dry for 12 hours before you can sand, so the absolute minimum time spans two days. My experience was that most mistakes in the early coats remained visible until sanding, so following the instructions is the way to go.

One big appeal of the Halcyon varnish is that it's water-based, and it was even easier to clean up than I expected. Much easier than even latex paint, so that was super convenient. There wasn't much of smell to it either. Much less than the Interlux non-water-based paint I used on the hull.

Being water based, it was also nice that the varnish could be thinned by just adding water. The instructions say that thinning isn't usually necessary, but I poured varnish out and poured it back into the container often enough in the course of working on the hull and then the deck that I felt like it was getting thicker than ideal. A little bit of water and some squeezing of the container fixed that up.

Given that I'm a novice in using varnish, I'm pleased with the results I got using the Halcyon. I think the flaws are mostly mine and not the varnish. The water-based aspect of the product in terms of odor and cleanup is really good. I'll see if it lasts well.
 
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