Making my first GP. At the moment I am doing the final shaping. I will be putting some fiberglass and I will use boiled lint oil. For some reason, here in the east, they like lint oil. My problem is that I might have to dilute it with turpentine and that sort of bothers me. Is it the same with tung oil? If I don't mix with turpentine and the paddle is sticky, is there a solution? Also if I do the mix, will it seep into the water?

I may be asking weird questions but I just don't want to unnessecarily add to the polution.

I will post a small build report for the benefit of the very unsecure nub's as myself.

Thanks
Andre

I use pure tung oil on my paddles. I usually put the oil and the paddle in the sun for a bit to warm up. Then I rub it in, a little bit at a time with my fingers. The trick is to put it on lightly and rub it in well. You will need several coats. If you do enough coats you can actually build up a surface finish that is quite durable, but rather slippery, so I would recommend stopping short of that.

Oh ok. I saw a different technic where you apply a thicker coat and let the wood absorb, for about 15 minutes. Then remove excess and reaply. Do about 3 coats and then wait till the next day and do one more. After the last one pour water and see if it pearls. If it does then it is ready, else do another coat.

I am wondering if this way of doing may be why some people find their treated wood sticky. I will try rubbing it in, without diluting the oil, and see how that goes.

Thanks.
Andre

Tung and Linseed oils are the best natural finishes because they contain the most double bonds of any natural oils. Linseed can be sticky because it takes a long time for the all the bonds to cross link. Sunlight and air starts the cross link reaction. Artists boil and add dryers (metal catalysts) to Linseed oil to speed the cross linking. The thinner is used to thin linseed oil so that it can be applied. Thinner can also be used to wash a way any un reacted sticky oil.

To get around all the technical problems with Linseed oil, I would use any other product in a can that is claimed to be exterior grade. Dilute the first coat and flood the finish on the wood until it will not absorb any more. The first coat will seal the wood. The first coat is you best opportunity to penetrate and seal the wood. Use the finish full strength on following coats. Water and sunlight will break down any finish. Consider using a finish with UV stabilizers, like Spar varnish.


Roy

That means going out buying more products. What started out to being a cheap way of having a beautiful paddle is starting to cost me

I will try with the lindseed oil. I'll dilute the first coat, then will see with the latter coats. If the paddle turns out sticky, I will use the thinner to clean off, as you mentionned.

Starting to cost cause I got a fiberglass repair kit to glass the blade edges. The reason I am doing that is because I hadn't noticed a nasty knot, going horizontal to the blade. If I remove it there will be a deep gash, in the blade. So while I am at it might as well ask about the fiberglass.

How many ounces of resine do I need for about 3 square feet, wetting the wood prior to putting the glass included? Not sure if I want filler coats as this will just add to the weight.

Andre

Andre,
I am all for making due with what I have on hand. But, I try to remember to test a sample first. Sometimes I forget to test and have a mess on my hands. If I could only remember to record what I tried out.
It might take longer to dry (cross link) then you want. Test your oil in a scrap piece of wood.
Also, check the can for a use by date. If it is past that date, don't use it. If the lid or cap is sticky, test it first.

Roy

You could always just put some epoxy where the knot is and forget about using cloth. I like to try out my paddles first before the final finish. That way you can sand some more off if you don't like the feel of it.

I got some scrap I can test the oil on. Will do that.

Here is what that knot looks like. Sorry for the links, I can't post photos. http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc463/agodin62/paddle_14.jpg and http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc463/agodin62/paddle_14.jpg

Ok so just put some epoxy on that knot and try it out before glassing around the blades and oiling? How much time will it need to dry before putting cloth and oil?

I am not sure, but I suspect that a heavily tung or linseed oiled blade will be an anathema to any epoxy. Unless you are going to glass the blade (and then epoxy the whole paddle for consistency), I am sorry to say that you probably should junk the paddle and make another one.

That is a major weak and unsightly spot in the blade that can only be overcome by multiple layers of glass. I feel your frustration, and am sorry say it so strongly:

Ok well, I will stop frustrating over it. I don't want to junk it, so I'll just oil it up, for the finish, and hang on the wall. Oh and try to sand the remaining defaults. since it will become an ornemant.

The idea of putting multiple layers of cloth is not what I had in mind. I don't want a paddle heavier than my plastic one.

Going to start hunting for lumber. Have to make one for my GF also.
Last question. Glassing the blade edges and then oiling the rest is not a good idea? Just want to know, since where we usually put in is rocky and I lean on my paddle to get in. I don't let my boat touch the rocks. Don't want to make scratches if I don't have to.

Thanks for the advice.

If your going to start over i would you give some thought to a laminated paddle . I 've built two so far out of scraps around my shop. Their much stonger than a single piece of wood and personally i like the look of them. I give them a few coats of oil and forget it.


good luck
bill

I would suggest that this paddle has utility other than just as a wall ornament. At least you should be able to put it to use and see how you like the shape, length, width, loom, etc. This will give you insights into how to build version 2.0. If you have the ability to glass the blades, do it and use the paddle to see what you do and don't like about it.
Just my 2 ¢.
Cheers,
Bryan

I was thinking about it. It would be a shame not to try my first one. I do have the cloth. I might need to buy a little more resine. Would make for good practice in glassing. I won't mind banging it on the rocks either. And when it's experimental life is over, I can always hang it on the wall as a war trophy. That's if it is still in one piece.

I will glass only the blades. That way if I don't like the loom shape, I can always rework it.

Thanks Jill and Bryan. You've made me think of using it as a prototype

the knot would be fine with just some epoxy to make sure it doesn't migrate out of the hole, or, remove the knot, and fill the hole with epoxy and sawdust mix... and, preferably, keep the knot on the compression face (away from you). It will be a weak spot, and probably break eventually, though, so make some more while you're at it

Like Stumpy says, clean it out real well, use a compressor to blow out the dust. Then use a syringe to get the mixed resin in there.

i just use Tung oil. my paddles are 8 yrs old. i use different kinds of wood. i buy 8 in x 3/4 and glue em together then shape em. you need the paddle as flexable as can be but not so that it breaks. it takes some paddling to get the feel. do some research on aleut and greenland paddles by Brink.
i would just use the paddle that you made to get a feel then make another one or two or three or four. LOL. good luck.

Outlaw

Will take Stumpy's suggestion and inject some resin in the knot. I'll use the linseed oil, cause that's what I got for now. When I will need to buy more, I will try the tung.

Once the resin has cured, will it be affected by the oil?

It will be slightly softened on the surface by the turps, but will harden up as the turps evaporate.