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 Post subject: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 11:50 am 
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Hello everyone!

I've been in the process of building my (Pygmy) Arctic Tern for the past 5 years. Now that I'm living in a place (Portland, OR) where I'd actually get use out of said kayak, it's time to finish her up!

Unfortunately, I've accumulated some water damage around the hatch cut-outs and I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I know that it won't look perfect, but I'd like to keep the "patchiness" to a minimum.

Oh, and I'm also looking for suggestions on how to make my hatches more water tight. The foam doesn't provide as good of a seal as I would like.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!


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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:53 pm 
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I don't understand what I'm supposed to be seeing in the picture. What's the nature of the water damage? I see a minor air bubble.

Regarding sealing the hatches, make sure you are using really good quality neoprene gasket material. Also ensure that the mating surface of the hatch is perfectly smooth for the best seal. Finally, what is providing the pressure to create the seal? Is it webbing and buckles over top? If so, is there any way to increase the downward pressure, perhaps by adding something underneath the buckles so that the buckles and straps push downwards.

Cheers,
Bryan

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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:34 pm 
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If the hatches have not warped during the 5 years of contrustion time, the gasket material supplied by Pygmy should be adequate. If it has dried out or deteriorated for any reason, it isn't all that difficult to contact them and get them to send you another strip.

Make sure that the cut edges of the ply around the hatch openings are bone dry and then give the very edge a quick "paint" of epoxy. That'll seal it. I don't think there's any way to remove staining once it gets into the ply and "up" to the surface.

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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:47 pm 
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Sorry, it's not a very good photo. The fiberglass & epoxy around the hatch opening has lifted up from the wood. The lighter colored 'glass is the part that is not longer attached. It is like this all the way around both hatch openings - about an inch wide.


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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 2:58 pm 
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Thanks for the explanation, that helps. Do the hatches have a flange which is attached underneath the deck? If I'm understanding it correctly, the flange is glass-covered plywood and the glass on the flange has lifted. If that's the case, and the actual deck is OK, I think I'd pull the hatch flange (the lip) out of the kayak and rebuild a new one. A heat gun should help to remove the flange, but this might not be as easy as I think it is since the same heat might cause the glass under the deck to lift. :?

Another question, how did it get water damaged? It should all have been sealed in epoxy &/or glass. I guess I'm just still trying to picture the problem, and wondering what other problems might crop up.

Cheers,
Bryan

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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 3:01 pm 
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Looks like a simple repair. See if you can squirt or work epoxy between the glass and wood to simply glue it back down. If the wood is not discoloured, it will look good as new. (Rip the gaskets off and clean the drop first). Then put a couple coats of epoxy over the drop and exposed wood edges so that this is less likely to happen soon.

If the first area started still leaves some air bubble (a likely scenario) then get some syringes (say 10cc) from a med store, poke (with a pin or needle) a hole in the top of the lifted areas, and inject the epoxy in that way. You'll just love how it all goes clear again. Then seal all exposed wood as above.

Apply new gaskets and yr done.


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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 3:06 pm 
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The reason I opted to suggest tearing out and replacing, rather than filling the gaps, is I'm wondering how such gaps occurred and the replacing option may do more to actually fix the problem. Having said that, depending on the nature of why that gap is there, then there's no reason that Mick's suggestion wouldn't work. And I do believe Mick has built a boat or two (or many). Take the simplest approach that tackles the problem.

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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:08 pm 
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Thanks for all of the replies!

Bryan, it is not the flange that is the problem. The glass has lifted off of the deck itself. Ripping it out would mean taking off a big chunk of the deck, which I was hoping to avoid.

I put some epoxy in between the wood and the glass and clamped it down with my C-clamps. Unfortunately the glass itself is discolored, but I think it will still look better than cutting it out and patching it.

We'll see how it looks tomorrow!


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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 10:42 pm 
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Quote:
and clamped it down with my C-clamps

careful with the pressure, as it's not really needed with epoxy and you just may be slightly discolouring the joint by starving it. If you can just tape it down or spring clamp it down, you may (may) get a more aesthetic result.


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 Post subject: Re: Arctic Tern patching help, please!
Unread postPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 4:11 am 
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Sorry to say that there is no easy way to fix it. Just grind out the delaminated glass and start over.
What ever caused the problem will not be fixed so easily . Be sure to rough sand
all wood surfaces and coat all wood edges. Round over the lip edge and wrap it edge with glass.
Any void (pin hole) in the epoxy will cause a problem.
Not all sponge seals are 100% water proof. Some seals can wick water to the inside and cause damage
if there is any void in the epoxy.
Recheck the whole boat for delimitation.
If the boat has been stored outside without protection from UV, give it a fresh coat of epoxy.

Roy


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