Lightweight fiberglass trial

Doug

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Joined
May 9, 2006
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195
Location
Vancouver
I did my first test with Style 1678 fiberglass this weekend.
The glass was purchased from Thayercraft Industries, it is very inexpensive at just over $1/yard! The details of the cloth are: 3.2oz, 0.1mm thick, 60x58 thread count, 210x200 lb/in breaking strength. In comparison, style 7533 (typical 6oz boat cloth) is 6oz, 0.2mm thick and 220x220 lb/in breaking strength. In other words, this cloth is almost 1/2 the weight, 1/2 the thickness and about the same strength. Even if doubled up on a kayak, the cost would be about $30/boat (for my canoe).

For some detailed info on cloths, check out
Hexcel's website

It wets out clear but it is definitely more difficult or finicky to make sure the epoxy wets it out. I had a few spots that ended up not clear, these were where I doubled up on the cloth. The photos below show the fiberglass, the wetout, 1 fill coat, a few spots not clear, and the layer thickness.







If you have any questions let me know.
 

kelly t

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Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
129
Hi Doug,

I am glad to hear (or read) your comments, as I have been checking out that website lately!
All said and done, are you satisfied with the glass? What brand and type of epoxy did you use?

Did you have the glass shipped into Canada, or to a US destination and then drive down? Did you get the 100 yd roll ?? :D (If so, wanna recoup some of your outlay?)

kelly t
 

Doug

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May 9, 2006
Messages
195
Location
Vancouver
Hi there,

It was shipped to Blaine, I don't think they will ship to Canada.

I used System Three Silvertip on this trial. I think it will work okay but maybe it'll be a bit tricky. First, the cloth width isn't wide enough for my canoe so I need to double up. The good is that this will give extra strength on the bottom of the hull, the bad is that it will be even tougher to wet out.

I sort of actually talked another guy into buying a roll last year. My intention was to split the roll the roll but he bought one himself so I bought 25yards from him. For sure this glass is great for inside of a boat and with some patience and methodical work I think it will work well for the outside too.
 

Doug

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May 9, 2006
Messages
195
Location
Vancouver
Here is another guy that used the same cloth, looks good to me.
http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?p=18395#18395

I'd entertain the idea of buying more cloth. One thing that is kind of tricky is rolling the cloth off of the roll that is shipped onto a new roll. I did it on our hardwood floor but it was really hard to keep everything perfectly clean. Maybe I should have laid down some brand new plastic drop sheets first.
 

Stumpy

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Mar 13, 2008
Messages
531
Location
staten island, new york
thayercraft has a 2.74 oz cloth in a 60" roll, same price. Any reason not to go with that? As far as wetting out, I've always found a nylon 'glass roller to solve most problems, were you using one?
 

Doug

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Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
195
Location
Vancouver
Stumpy, the 3070 has a tight weave and thread count of 70x70 vs 40x40 of the 1678. I think the 3070 would be a lot more difficult to wet out. Secondly, it is signicantly weaker at 140x140 vs 210x210 lb/in.

As for the roller, I was wondering about them. I've never seen any references to use those type of rollers in wooden kayak/canoe building guides, but I've seen references to them in larger boat building guides and surfboard making. Are they used to force epoxy into the glass without causing bubbles, or something like that?
 

Astoriadave

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May 31, 2005
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5,625
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Astoria, Oregon, USA
Doug, the ribbed rollers force the wetted-out glass down, allowing excess resin to rise above, where it is easier to squeegee the excess off. The guy I share a shop with introduced me to their use. Seems to help. They come in Vee-shaped profile, also, for use on inside corners. Having glassed the inside of some sng multichined kayak hulls, I can see how they would be useful for getting the glass down to the wood on seams, a tricky proposition.
 

Stumpy

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Mar 13, 2008
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531
Location
staten island, new york
sorry, wasn't paying attention to the strength ratio, guess I figured, at the price, I'd double it if I felt neccessary. the tight weave doesn't scare me though, with a roller, it should wet out ok. metal or nylon doesn't really matter, the metal ones usually have shallower grooves, pushing resin around like a squeegee, so they may be better. the nylon"s grooves are deeper, forcing the resin down and the air out. they're essential when using a chopper gun to shoot hulls, to get more continuity in the finished product, and lay down the loose "hair" I've seen the rollers in 3", 6" aswell as the corner and barrel shape, though I have yet to use the latter two.
 
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