Couple of things about tarps … Few hammock campers use paracord. It’s just too stretch and heavy when wet. Mostly we use AmSteel (7/64th size) and learn to make a variety of woven products, loops, dogbones, “soft” carabiners, adjustable lines (called whoopie slings), etc. But for tarp rigging, the ridgeline cord is usually 1.75 or 2.2mm cord (sometimes called LashIt) of the same woven design.
One simple setup is to have a small hook on one end and that line end goes around the tree and hooks to itself. Bonus points for coming off the side of tree instead of from the middle - it puts less strain on the hook. The other end goes around the other tree and hooks on itself by wrapping on some hardware device like a Figure-9 and slides to the desired location and locks. So at this point you have a tight clothes line. The tarp is hung under the line to adjustable prusik loops.
Anywhere in this system sliding knots can be replaced with lightweight hardware. For example, a product called Nama Claws slides on 1.75m line can locks with tension. They would hold the tarp ridgeline taut on the support line.
The usual “rule” is, in non-winter, the line goes over the tarp. 1) it reduces chaffing on a critical (waterproof) seam. 2) it prevents rain from running down the line under the tarp. In winter, where there is less wind and no rain, the line is run under the tarp to provide extra support in case of snowfall. That said, if you run the line under the tarp and hang something on it, it will be pulled down and not rub on the ridgeline. But you’ll still want a “water break” - traditionally a tied piece of cotton shoestring - to divert the water so it doesn’t run down that line under the tarp.
Some people put a short length of bungee cord - often backed up by a slightly longer fixed cord to limit the stretch - on the corners to 1) keep the edges taut, 2) give the tarps some ability to deflect so it can spill some wind and spring back.
Though it seems “the right thing to do” to orient the tarp broadside to the wind/weather, that usually result in the tarp being blown against whatever is under it and presents the largest surface area to the push force. If you can orient parallel to the wind, you present the smaller surface area to the weather and you have the support trees for addition blockage.
Many tarps, especially those chosen for winter and more extreme weather, have extra material on the ends so one or both of those ends can be closed too.
Many tarps had a pull loop on the side panel (called a panel pull) and that can be staked out or a small pole put over the ridgeline and attached to the panel pulls (one on each side, opposite each other) lifting out and up. So if you imagine the basic tarp as and upside down V, these pulls near the middle of the sides, pull out to give more interior space.
And many use an pole or two on the edge of the tarp they’d consider “the front” to lift it up like an awning (called porch mode).
But don’t get me started … I could give an 45 minute seminar
Silnylon, Silpoly, DCF, snakeskins, continuous ridge lines/split ridge lines, dogbones, soft shackles, EVO loops, toggles, wasps, loop aliens, etc.