The New Realities of Paddling Treaty Settlement Areas on Vanvouver Islands West Coast - Kyuquot/Checleset Bay Area

[SalishSeaNior]

I am just finishing up making plans for a group trip to the Bunsby Islands and Checleset Bay, all of which are now under the oversight of the Kyuquot/Checleset First Nation. I found in my early planning attempts, a dirth of accurate informaton about the status of the lands and campsites in the area. The BC Marine Trails map has the following to say about Too Tah Island in the Bunsby Group:

"Other: First Nations (KCFN) owned Maa-Nulth Treaty land. Reasonable public access to be provided. Fees not currently charged (2023). Aka Barneys Island or Gay Passage Island. Frequent water taxi drop-off / pick up site. Indirect report of campers being asked to leave when cabin owner is present."

I managed to verify this through several different articles and sources, There is a cabin on the west side of the spit that previously has been routinely used for camping in the past, and people have been asked to leave by the Cabin Owners. The owners family (Barny Williams Family), traditionally had title to the island. In order to clear up this vague and confusing information, I contacted the Kyuquot and Checleseht First Nation and spoke with Dianna Dragon - Lands & Natural Resources Co-Ordinator for the Band. As per the the information on the "Visiting" webpage linked above, the Band requires registration of groups entering visiting and camping in their territory.

After providing Ms Dragon with an email detailing the trip dates and size of our party, I recieved the following response. "You may land and camp on the island ( Too Tah ), but avoid the Cabin area as it belongs to the owners. You are officially registered and marked as entering the territory. We are providing a Witwaak brochure so when you arrive please let them know, and the numbers are on the brochure."

I have tried to load the Witwaak Brochure for information here, but it may be to large a file. No doubt, you can get it by email with a request to Ms. Dragon's office.

So bottom line on visiting Checleset Bay area as of spring 2026:

1. Seeking permission to visit the area, the entire area, is required, as is registration with the Band and notification by phone confirming your visit at the time of arrival.

2. You may be able to get permission to land and camp on Too Tah Island if you ask for permission well in advance. Failure to do so may result in your being asked to leave. The Island is considered to be private.

3. There are no fees in effect for visiting the area as of spring 2026.

End of report and update.

Cheers, Rick

 

[SalishSeaNior]

I think I will mention my past history with this magical place. I visited the area three or four times in the late 1980s/90s. At the time, the Bunsby Islands were to the best of my knowledge still crown land, I believe the park was established in 1996. There were many reserve lands in the area and several old village sites as well at that time. My friend Rachel, an anthropology student at UBC had an deep interest in first nations culture and history, as did I.

We had both been deeply moved by two trips to Haida Gwaii, then still known as the Queen Charlotte Ilsands in the early 1980s. So on our first trip to Checleset Bay, we paddled onto the beach at Hopsitsis, across from the village of Kyuquot, where we were met by a large group of excited kids who greeted us and asked about our kayaks. Once we had answered their questions and given a few a short float in the boats, we went up to the Band Office.

On entering, there were two ladies sitting at desks. We introduced ourselves, and then told them we were hoping we might get permission to visit the old village site on the Ahous Penninsula. I can still almost picture the startled look we got on asking for permission. One of the ladies told us that we were the first white people who had ever asked for such permission to their knowledge. They also told us that other "visitors" had plundered artifacts and even grave sites for souvenirs. And then they both thanked us profusely for asking and gave us permission to visit Ahousat. At the time we found remains of long houses and even a totem pole at the site.

At the time, there were few kayakers on the west coast of Van Isle and certainly no water taxi services, or commercial outfitters. So, as you might imagine we had this enchanting place all to our selves. And so this summer after at least 30 years, Rachel, mayself, our spouses and a few other close friends will be going back. I for one am happy to comply with a few restrictions on the part of the Band who are reclaiming their traditional territoy and trying to manage it for the future. A bit more complicated to visit, but then the world is now much more crowded and complex too.

Rick