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Varnish

What about scuff marks? If I sand to 320 grit should it be okay?
Sorry. Haven't varnished anything in years.
 
Blackhawk said:
Scuff marks in the wood prior to the first coat. Should they all be gone? Stand back 3'?
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My goal (not always realized) is to have a smooth matte surface of epoxy, sanded to 220 grit, and then cleaned and wiped with a tack cloth to remove dust. Then varnish.
If you are wondering about the appearance after varnishing, you can get an idea by wetting the scuff with alcohol. Normally I'd suggest paint thinner but I feel that the thinner residue would interfere with any epoxy 'patching' you might want to do before proceeding with the varnish.
 
Hopefully final question with this.
Start varnishing tomorrow.
I put graphics on the bow and mid seam prior to glassing.
My intent was to balance this with a graphic on each side of the stern prior to varnishing.
I will be varnishing the deck for 3 days, then flipping and doing the side/keel.
is there an issue doing the stern graphic this way? Putting it on with resin, curing for 3 days, sanding that area then varnishing?
Thanks.
 
JohnAbercrombie said:
My goal (not always realized) is to have a smooth matte surface of epoxy, sanded to 220 grit, and then cleaned and wiped with a tack cloth to remove dust. Then varnish.
If you are wondering about the appearance after varnishing, you can get an idea by wetting the scuff with alcohol. Normally I'd suggest paint thinner but I feel that the thinner residue would interfere with any epoxy 'patching' you might want to do before proceeding with the varnish.
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The first coat went well. A couple of small "holidays", but I was afraid of going back over and making it too thick so I left for the second coat. I think the second coat I will try the roller versus foam brush. I started with the foam brush on the coaming and stuck with it.
The only other issue was one "blob" under the aft coaming. I need to do a better job of going around with a light in my basement. After about 20 hours it's still a little gummy. I scraped with a razor blade. Sand it lightly too?
If I wet sand between coats I see 220 and 320 used. Difference?
Thanks.
 
I'd use 320 grit or a scotchbrite pad, and probably dry sand.
I'm not a fan of foam brushes - I can't get a thin even coat with a foam brush, and they seem to break down and get floppy quite quickly.
But I don't varnish a lot. Probably best to follow Nick Schade's advice - he probably has a YouTube video showing varnishing.
 
I've been reasonably successful rolling on the varnish with a short nap roller and then tipping off with a 2" wide foam brush. Just lightly carress the varnish surface; don't try to move it around. As soon as the varnish is spread out on the surface, the vehicle begins evaporating, the residue thickens up and starts to cure. Of course if you see a drip forming, use the brush to spread it out, but be gentle.
 
Minor varnish issue.
I put a black "pinstripe". It appears that using a green scrubby doesn't scuff it enough and some varnish peeled. Should I strip all the varnish from the pinstripe and redo it? Just strip those peels and use sandpaper to scuff it?
 
As I sit and wait for public launch facilities to reopen, I've thought about a statement I made earlier about the accent stripe not needing protection by varnish. I made my way out to the multipurpose room (garage) where my unlaunched boat is stored and waiting just to check whether or not I did apply varnish. I did varnish over the tape stripe! So much time has elapsed, I'd forgotten. I can't offer an explanation as to why your black pinstripe doesn't hold varnish. I didn't scuff mine before varnishing; maybe your pinstripe is varnish-adverse?
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Oldpro said:
As I sit and wait for public launch facilities to reopen, I've thought about a statement I made earlier about the accent stripe not needing protection by varnish. I made my way out to the multipurpose room (garage) where my unlaunched boat is stored and waiting just to check whether or not I did apply varnish. I did varnish over the tape stripe! So much time has elapsed, I'd forgotten. I can't offer an explanation as to why your black pinstripe doesn't hold varnish. I didn't scuff mine before varnishing; maybe your pinstripe is varnish-adverse?View attachment 8756
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I think it needs to sit more before taping. I was taping the middle of the stripe, and it seemed to be pulling up the varnish. For the last few coats I used the edge of the stripe as the tape line. So when I did the deck I taped just below the stripe. Doing the side/keel I taped just above it on the deck. That seems to be working better.
 
Last night we kept the windows open in the house. Which means... fall is around the corner. I probably have a couple of months of paddling left without a dry suit.
So my thoughts have turned to taking care of the scuff marks on the boat this winter and other maintenance. Those didn't take long. Good thing I obsessed about every scuff before I varnished. :o-o: Also, I didn't put quite as many varnish coats on as I wanted so I would get some days on the water.
1. I've heard not to reuse varnish, but I have some left over that arrived in June. As long as I strain it is there a problem using it?
2. The keel line has several layers of glass. Does anyone put anything else on it? Obviously a bunch of scuff marks there.
3. I finally received graphics I ordered for my stern that would go on the hull, right about the waterline. How would I do this? Do I need to remove all the varnish in that area first? Too much of a pain?
4. My deck lines should be good, but I will inspect them for any frays. I looked at what Chesepeak Boats does with their boats. Any other suggestions?

Thanks.
 
Lee Valley sell these bags and I've had spar varnish in one since January and its in perfect shape. Previously I tried a multitude of small bottles, marbles to displace the air, propane to replace the air. I'm sold on these bags.

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Blackhawk said:
3. I finally received graphics I ordered for my stern that would go on the hull, right about the waterline. How would I do this? Do I need to remove all the varnish in that area first? Too much of a pain?
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These are vinyl adhesive logo graphics - same stuff folks use on powerboats and sailboats?
If so, you just need a very smooth area for them- any bumps or hollows (dust in the finish, etc.) will cause air bubbles under the vinyl.
Right on top of the varnish will be fine, IMO.
 
I forgot to post pictures of the finished product. The bow and midship graphics are rice paper. The stern graphics are decals.

So... after the trouble of figuring out how to varnish the tape someone pointed out that you put the tape on AFTER you varnish. That way you can replace it every year. :rolleyes:
So.... how do I go about removing it? I will probably do this over the winter and add another coat of varnish. At least to the keel with the scuff marks.
The last picture is a shot of JR Rawling's yacht 'Amphitrite' with West Point in the background. I stopped by to ask for some Grey Poupon.
 

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Blackhawk said:
So... after the trouble of figuring out how to varnish the tape someone pointed out that you put the tape on AFTER you varnish. That way you can replace it every year. :rolleyes:
So.... how do I go about removing it? I will probably do this over the winter and add another coat of varnish. At least to the keel with the scuff marks.
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That is a pretty boat.

My fiberglass boat had some sort of tape that the previous owner had put on. I removed it last winter after a few years as it was looking ratty. I used a hair dryer and solvent to soften it up and various scrapers (first plastic and then a metal one) very carefully to get all the gunk off.

I replaced it with helicopter tape, which worked pretty well. I haven't removed any of that but googling found various suggestions similar to what I did above.

It would be less scary with a wood boat refinishing as you will be sanding anyway, so can deal with any issues from removal. I would not put tape on my varnished cedar strip boat as I know I will refinish that periodically anyway (done once so far) and live with the scratches in between as it is a working boat and not furniture.
 
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