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Yes it's another GP!

justincdst

Paddler
Joined
Aug 3, 2012
Messages
51
Location
48.383 -123.733
I've been stuck indoors for the last few days with Southern Vancouver Island's fantastic winter weather so what else to do but carve out a Greenland paddle. All I need is a quick sand down with some finer grit and some sort of finish. I won't ask for anyone's opinions on finishes cause I don't know what the policy is on repeated threads but fill free to comment! I have a left over piece of lumber about 48 inches long, is that two short for a storm paddle
 

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Re: Yes its another GP!

justincdst said:
All I need is a quick sand down with some finer grit and some sort of finish. I won't ask for anyone's opinions on finishes cause I don't know what the policy is on repeated threads...
The policy is that if you have a question, you ask it. :big_thumb

Tung oil is the answer.

Apply liberally, let soak, then wipe off. Re-apply until completely saturated (probably five or six coats).
 
Nice! I like the pic with all the shavings. :cool

I've got a nice straight, clear, vertical-grain western red cedar 2x4 waiting for me to stop procrastinating. When I have a moment, I'll considering thinking about starting to carve my own... :wink:
 
I've read that most people are putting up to five coats of tung oil on their paddles, any know how big of a can is needed for that? I'm on my way to Rona in a bit.

Thanks for the help
 
Not familiar with that brand. I just checked my building cupboard and I bought Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish. It was a 1 quart (946 ml) can that still has over 3/4 left. I'm pretty sure I got it at Home Depot.
 
perfect, I'm gonna stick with the Tung oil, from my understanding the Tung N' Teak does not have the same UV protection. Ill post pics when its ready for the water.
 
Nice Job! + 1 on Dan's recommendation with the tung oil.
If you're willing to venture a step further, consider incorporating a CF ferrule and turn that freshly carved GP into a two piece.
I recently completed a second take-apart with clear epoxy tips.

P1101549_zps9bf733d1.jpg
 
I found that heating the oil a bit made it abosrb better - I would then use a heat gun (hair dryer) on the paddle to help it soak in. Light sanding between coats until the grain doesn't raise anymore. 8 coats on my first one, tipped the ends with fiberglass and epoxy then painted them off-white.
 
Those paddles look outstanding. Im on my second coat and the tung oil is really bringing out my mistakes so lessons learned for my next paddle are pretty big since this is my first time using a block plane and doing wood work all by hand. Im used to a feathered paddle so i am curious how a two piece would work. Ill be out near albert head on sunday put us to the test. Should be fun, never used a "stick" before!
 
Just thought I'd jump in and toss my 2 cents in for good measure :wink: . I've been using teak oil for the last 25 or 30 years, and find it far superior to tung oil, which is usually boiled linseed oil/mineral spirits, with a tung bean hung up on a string somewhere in the factory while they're making "100%" tung oil.

The main trick to teak oil is to apply 2 coats in one day, then put the paddle (project, or whatever) in the corner, and ignore it for 3 days, to let it full polymerize & harden. Then take it out, sand it with 320 paper lightly, and apply two or three more coats, over the next two or three days. When these are dry, a final rub with red scotchbrite will give you a very smooth, satin finish, that should last a couple of seasons, when you may need to add a coat or two.

That said, my own current favorite paddle has NO finish on it, NO fiberglass tips, and after three years of hard use, still feels good, and even smells like cedar when it's wet, (slightly).
 
Thanks Stumpy, Im going to consider Teak for my next paddle. I've decided to stop at two coats of Tung until after I've tried it out in the water in a few hours. I figured if I have to do more shaping on the ends or make the loom smaller there was no point to keep adding oil to it until Im comfortable with it.
 
So first paddle out was pretty good. I ended up staying in Sooke and launched at billings spit in the Sooke basin since coopers cove actually had ice on it. My only issue is the paddle is very loud in the water but i think thats because i didnt round the tips enough, easy fix. Im looking forward to trying it out in the surf once i get a more confident roll! Thanks everyone for the input.
 
Loud? Usually it's the other way around, with the euro paddles making all the noise. I do have one or two GPs that "sing" while I'm paddling, but have never found a way to get consistent results to make singing paddles. The two that I have set up a resonance while paddling hard that I can hear... one is A, the other is B flat, and it only happens while paddling hard.

When paddling at a normal pace, I've found GPs to be the most silent way to sneak up on wildlife, for photo ops, but I do couple that with skin boats, which are also very quiet.
 
While using a GP (or an Aleutian) try an almost imperceptible hesitatation just before you "plant" the paddle in the water. And that "plant" is important. Most people already start pulling back on the blade before it even hits the water. That will always be noisy. Instead push the blade forward into the water (the "plant") and then pull back. It will be silent, trust me. It may take some practice but it's worth it.
 
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